tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-47801087085168964972024-03-19T08:42:46.637+01:00Michele Caminati BlogMichele Caminatihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04009755354934828297noreply@blogger.comBlogger57125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4780108708516896497.post-53854332390507227662021-09-03T12:40:00.001+02:002021-09-03T12:46:45.909+02:00Bohuslän<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span face="Helvetica, sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt;">There are a few magical places that I discovered in my climbing life where
I can simply come back over and over without ever getting bored of. For
bouldering there has been <i>Fontainebleau</i>, for sport climbing
<i>Céüse</i>, for multi-pitch <i>Verdon</i> and for trad climbing the
<i>Peak District</i></span><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-style: italic; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">. Two years ago I discovered a new place that definitely deserves to be
included in the list: </span><i><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">Bohuslän</span></i><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-style: italic; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">
in Sweden.</span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyjprJNyXvoC0Jxwd-CcCMVZHeQA_2LjWnG7XanbSNCEHt-ued5wo-kNaj9hCHKhbWUPTv9DFmVu4pcU9EX4G-EWPrvRXQO72GXSxdZtYNefA7tl9Qp4oWmAuFEsHqm_hY7XPllqM08x0/s1617/DSC01929.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1617" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyjprJNyXvoC0Jxwd-CcCMVZHeQA_2LjWnG7XanbSNCEHt-ued5wo-kNaj9hCHKhbWUPTv9DFmVu4pcU9EX4G-EWPrvRXQO72GXSxdZtYNefA7tl9Qp4oWmAuFEsHqm_hY7XPllqM08x0/s600/DSC01929.jpg" width="450" /></a>
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The crag of VRÅNGARÖ
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<span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-style: italic; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">In this region you will see red granite cliffs everywhere you look, being
it on the beautiful coast full of fjords or coming out of the woods that
cover the little hills of the inland. The rock is fantastic: perfectly
smooth, with a wide variety of shapes and, of course, cracks. The climbing
here is mainly trad, with just few anchors here and there (most of the
time you have to build your own), and bolts just where is not possible to
climb with gear. Most of the routes here are not just splitters that eat
your gear: the cracks tend to be flared and intermittent, so you can get
less intuitive and more distant placements. I think this place is a
perfect mix between the “friendliness” of the crags we have in northern
Italy, like </span><i><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">Cadarese</span></i><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-style: italic; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">
or </span><i><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">Orco</span></i><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-style: italic; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">, and the “boldness” that a place like the Peak District can have. In
fact is not unusual to see people top roping a route before going for a
lead attempt on some of the harder lines (like in the Peak District it’s
often possible to access the top of the crag from behind).</span>
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Hassan Chop,7a - Granitbiten, 6c - Backdraft, 8a
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<span face="Helvetica, sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt;">My first visit was in 2019, just a short stop of a few days on the way
to Flatanger. We climbed at the crags of </span><i><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">Hallinden</span></i><span face="Helvetica, sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt;">
and </span><i><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">Sk</span><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">ä</span><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">lefj</span><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">äll</span></i><span face="Helvetica, sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt;">, and we had some nice temperatures and decent weather. </span><span face="Helvetica, sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt;">During that first visit I had the pleasure to climb, besides easier
stuff, </span><b><i><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">Veckans Värsting</span></i></b><span face="Helvetica, sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt;">, 8 (7b+), and </span><b><i><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">Backdraft</span></i></b><span face="Helvetica, sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt;">, 9- (8a), that proved to be a good introduction to the climbing in
this place. On the last day we had some rain and we just managed to
visit the beautiful crag of </span><i><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">Ulorna,</span></i><span face="Helvetica, sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt;">
without being able to climb: it was enough to start planning a new and
longer visit the following year!</span>
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<span face="Helvetica, sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt;">So in August 2020, after all the pandemic madness, we prepared to
drive again to Sweden, this time equipped with more gear as well as
crash pads. Unfortunately we were not so “lucky” with the weather, the
sun was hitting hard every day and temperatures soon rose up to +28°:
it was definitely more pleasant having a swim or eating an ice cream
than climbing on granite. The first days I worked the moves on the
scary </span><a name="_Hlk81472912" style="font-size: 10pt;"><b><i><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">Electric Avenue</span></i></b></a><span face="Helvetica, sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt;">, 9- (8a) but I decided I was too hot for me to consider a lead
attempt, so I started to look at something different, and I found an
interesting line at the crag of </span><i style="font-size: 10pt;"><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">Vr</span><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">å</span><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">ngar</span><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">ö</span></i><span face="Helvetica, sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt;">, a short 8b called “</span><b style="font-size: 10pt;"><i><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">Crassostrea Gigas</span></i></b><span face="Helvetica, sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt;">”, placed just in front of a small beach where we could relax and
swim.</span>
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Crassostrea Gigas, 8b - Vrångarö
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<span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-style: italic; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">This route is mostly to a highball with a crack in the middle, where is
possible to place two cams. The first crux is getting to the crack and
is climbed above pads, the next one is managing to place the gear and
get past the flared crack itself, the third one consists of slapping a
slopy rail that leads to the top. I worked the route for a few days and
while being able to do all the moves, I always got too sweaty inside the
crack and could not get past it starting from the beginning. As a small
consolation I managed to climb a new boulder on perfect rock just right
of this route, and I called it “</span><b><i><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">The Holy Pinch</span></i></b><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-style: italic; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">”, 7c+.</span>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/vOBcQ-xalpE" width="450" youtube-src-id="vOBcQ-xalpE"></iframe>
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<span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-style: italic; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">Another route I tried without success on that trip is the offwidth </span><b><i><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">Presenten</span></i></b><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-style: italic; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">, 8 (7b+). It’s a short overhanging offwidth that goes from a tight
#5 to a tight #6 in the first part, and follows with some wide fists
(#4) until you turn the lip of the overhang and the difficulties are
over. It doesn’t look so hard when you look at it and, given the
grade of 7b+, I thought I could even flash the thing if I were lucky.
That was a huge error of judgment and I ended up sweating to death
even trying to aid up the thing. After two days of efforts I managed
to find a good sequence and to do all the individual moves, but I was
still far from the possibility to climb it, and my body was begging
for mercy.</span>
</div>
<span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-style: italic; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;"><br /></span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi89luyhQ9u0_VRwxOSRB1VlNfN2rHg7URT7jtyT7kZyOU8g-DcA3E6BQPy0C6VvUt81Pe6LiNGevoBoOtvDnx7TD9_QDJxriyasKtTNJfBDbh_MlhMAfjGZvffqL-LjR11DEDK5RB7eME/s2048/DSC02395-efex.jpg" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1638" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi89luyhQ9u0_VRwxOSRB1VlNfN2rHg7URT7jtyT7kZyOU8g-DcA3E6BQPy0C6VvUt81Pe6LiNGevoBoOtvDnx7TD9_QDJxriyasKtTNJfBDbh_MlhMAfjGZvffqL-LjR11DEDK5RB7eME/s320/DSC02395-efex.jpg" width="225" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNCJBETWYeqH22mb5nxPcnJ-zhJgomD3LzK0ZRZWUncgBwFzuOudSFMLGFJQxL_TcsWSMOKfMo9xCYRwVmFB4YuQFTr4SoqLc4ixpoAROVLgljxCDTbPpY3PWFbJNAPswAcirZooNDizY/s2048/DSC02642-efex.jpg" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1639" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNCJBETWYeqH22mb5nxPcnJ-zhJgomD3LzK0ZRZWUncgBwFzuOudSFMLGFJQxL_TcsWSMOKfMo9xCYRwVmFB4YuQFTr4SoqLc4ixpoAROVLgljxCDTbPpY3PWFbJNAPswAcirZooNDizY/s320/DSC02642-efex.jpg" width="225" /></a>
</div>
Presenten, 7b+ - Änghagen
</div>
<div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-style: italic; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">We spent the last days visiting around, discovering new crags, and
trying to climb as much nice stuff as possible. A few evenings we
enjoyed bouldering under the shade of the trees at the crag of </span><a name="_Hlk81470701"><i><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">H</span><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">ä</span><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">ller</span></i></a><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-style: italic; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">
where the rock managed to keep a decent temperature throughout the day.
We were already dreaming of coming back with better temperatures the
next year as we had too much unfinished business!</span>
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-style: italic; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;"><br /></span>
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<tbody>
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<td style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuGRh1fSezTd97efiHykX3ceM3Rxd3knSX6cOm7QYXJIGZXcMYWUARmhOBmKX60bIkL9lFHL4Ql1eKH3WOxPKy9ogp33K3EQBSJuvoP4kjiRcXLKMsqzvgsLZsuTN2HZICE3UpZV2aVX4/s2048/DSC02243.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="1365" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuGRh1fSezTd97efiHykX3ceM3Rxd3knSX6cOm7QYXJIGZXcMYWUARmhOBmKX60bIkL9lFHL4Ql1eKH3WOxPKy9ogp33K3EQBSJuvoP4kjiRcXLKMsqzvgsLZsuTN2HZICE3UpZV2aVX4/s600/DSC02243.jpg" width="450" /></a>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">
the town of Fjällbacka
</td>
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</tbody>
</table>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span face="Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-size: 10pt;">This summer, for the third year in a row, we packed our car and drove
up to Bohuslän, hoping to find better conditions for climbing than in
August 2020. Sometimes is nice to come back to the same places: you
get to know the little secrets; you get to know people better and you
start to feel at home. This place although is so big I will need to
come back a few more times to be able to see most of the stuff it has
to offer.</span>
</div>
</div>
<span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-style: italic; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;"><br /></span>
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<td style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIRv_J7cIAUtCyrHOJIny68Wep4-xA6auhXfTeVwZFCI-niZKbGSxVe3C45Y5wEHnh3_39kh6p_1daYmOtIVJyoyATNQ-WOD1H4hlNd5PSTxvhkXk_OR2OHJX_a2bgHC4krL5SF741ar8/s2048/DSC07599.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="1368" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIRv_J7cIAUtCyrHOJIny68Wep4-xA6auhXfTeVwZFCI-niZKbGSxVe3C45Y5wEHnh3_39kh6p_1daYmOtIVJyoyATNQ-WOD1H4hlNd5PSTxvhkXk_OR2OHJX_a2bgHC4krL5SF741ar8/s600/DSC07599.jpg" width="450" /></a>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">
Ramsvikslandet Fykan
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-style: italic; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">At the beginning of the holiday I had two goals in my mind: </span><a name="_Hlk81420738"><i><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">Crassostrea</span></i></a><i><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">
Gigas</span></i><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-style: italic; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">
and </span><i><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">Presenten</span></i><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-style: italic; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">. This time the temperatures were much nicer, always around +20° during
the day, and it was much easier to climb, like it was during our first
visit in 2019. It did rain a few times, but it was always possible to get
some climbing done before or after the showers. The first thing I tried
was <i>Crassostrea</i></span><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">: although the moves felt easier straight from the beginning, it still
required three days of work to make it happen. It is a bit scary above the
pads and placing gear gets tiring on a real lead attempt!</span>
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<p style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-top: 8px; overflow: hidden; padding: 8px 0px 7px; text-align: center; text-overflow: ellipsis; white-space: nowrap;">
<a href="https://www.instagram.com/tv/CTUN0IzDTwx/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">Un post condiviso da Michele Caminati (@michelecaminati)</a>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">The route is hard, but it didn’t feel as hard as something like
<i>Greenspit</i> in Orco, which is very different by the way, and probably
deserves the “+” in the grade. After that we started climbing some easier
offwidths, to get in the right mood for “Presenten”. At first we went to
see <b><i>Skrubbsår</i></b>,<b><i> </i></b>6+ (6b+) at <i>Hunnebo Kl</i></span><i><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">å</span><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">va</span></i><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">, a nice wide crack in a flared corner, and then the classic
<b><i>Offline</i></b>, 7+ (7a) at <i>Häller</i>. I obviously failed at both on the onsight,
but they went smoothly on the second go after I understood how to do the
crux.</span>
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Skrubbsår, 6b+, Hunnebo Klåva - Offline, 7a, Häller
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<span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-style: italic; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">It was now finally time to try </span><b><i><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">Presenten</span></i></b><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-style: italic; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">, the route that spit me out the previous year, and the route for which I
trained for this winter in the self-made offwidth I made in my garage. I
had already climbed earlier in June </span><i><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">Penitenziagite</span></i><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-style: italic; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">
and </span><i><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">Glowes of War</span></i><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-style: italic; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">
in </span><i><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">Orco</span></i><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-style: italic; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">, both given 7c, but I knew I was going for something a bit harder with
Presenten. Luckily I did remember how to do the cruxes, and I managed to
climb the route on the 3<sup>rd </sup></span><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">go of the day, even if I already planned to come back at least once for
it. It seems all the lock down winter training in the garage paid off! Or
is it thanks to the new <i>TC PRO</i> prototypes of <i>La Sportiva</i>?
Who knows.</span>
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Visualizza questo post su Instagram
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<a href="https://www.instagram.com/tv/CTMslpUDlJz/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">Un post condiviso da Michele Caminati (@michelecaminati)</a>
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<br /><span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;"><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 10pt; text-align: justify;">
<span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">I haven’t done as many offwidths to be able to understand how the
grading system works, probably nobody knows, but I can say something
like <i>Turkey Crack</i> (8a) in <i>Cadarese</i>,
<i>Glowes of War</i> (7c) in <i>Orco</i>, and <i>Presenten</i> (7b+) in
<i>Bohuslän</i> should be reversed in order when it comes to difficulty,
at least for me. </span><span style="font-size: 10pt;">After </span><i style="font-size: 10pt;">Presenten</i><span style="font-size: 10pt;">
there were not many days left, but I still wanted to try another classic
line here in Bohuslän. </span><span style="font-size: 10pt;">The options were </span><a name="_Hlk81474472" style="font-size: 10pt;"><b><i>Crackoholic</i></b></a><span style="font-size: 10pt;"> at </span><i style="font-size: 10pt;">Ulorna</i><span style="font-size: 10pt;"> and </span><b style="font-size: 10pt;"><i>Electric Avenue</i></b><span style="font-size: 10pt;"> at</span><span style="font-size: 10pt;"> </span><i style="font-size: 10pt;">Skälefjäll</i><span style="font-size: 10pt;">
(the one I tried last year), both 9- or 8a. I decided for the first one
as it seemed a bit shorter, safer, and easier to work in just a few
days.</span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL2xt6vfC4ekROfQgt2_aiGD2rdukqNk3cNu4oMNN60ouZvTmc5qZM586sg-ankpFStN7oO3rKU0i7EKi6v3QgcYkqCNQP5YlGlggCJryzJY58Cro5vS0OgG3sWNVarlh4ZTYissbrgqo/s2048/20210815_132816.jpg" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1152" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL2xt6vfC4ekROfQgt2_aiGD2rdukqNk3cNu4oMNN60ouZvTmc5qZM586sg-ankpFStN7oO3rKU0i7EKi6v3QgcYkqCNQP5YlGlggCJryzJY58Cro5vS0OgG3sWNVarlh4ZTYissbrgqo/s320/20210815_132816.jpg" width="225" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgikc1dc0eolJzxsBYlX0-wdpxxHX4uf4R3jLTElUdWzF88F40nqLnHc8QcuasI32dAi-w72n1V-orufB5IbFFUrPTqy-5Fqy-xd9WF7JO0toS49Jxvk_6yDYYPZ5KomqH-kDjNbOUV2RM/s2048/20210819_144850.jpg" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1152" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgikc1dc0eolJzxsBYlX0-wdpxxHX4uf4R3jLTElUdWzF88F40nqLnHc8QcuasI32dAi-w72n1V-orufB5IbFFUrPTqy-5Fqy-xd9WF7JO0toS49Jxvk_6yDYYPZ5KomqH-kDjNbOUV2RM/s320/20210819_144850.jpg" width="225" /></a>
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<span style="text-align: left;">the crag of Vrångarö - Ibens bock & Crackoholic at Ulorna</span>
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<span style="text-align: left;"><br /></span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
<span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">The first day working on the route was hard: I managed to do all the
moves in the upper part quite easily, but I really struggled with the
lower crux, that I managed to climb just a few times and not even
starting from the beginning. I also tried the famous route in the corner
on the left: <i>Ibens bok</i>, 8 (7b+) and I soon realised it was way
too thin for my fat fingers, there were a few moves I couldn’t do, even
trying to smear my feet all the way up every time possible. I have to
stop trying anything that involves jamming my fingers in a #0.2 crack
size. It’s totally pointless and I must accept this.</span>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/uImUOEwdBuU" width="450" youtube-src-id="uImUOEwdBuU"></iframe>
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<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">The next day on <i>Crackoholic</i> I tried to put on some stiffer
shoes, I revised a bit my foot sequence and eventually I managed to
climb it on top rope, mimicking gear placements as I was climbing. I
was planning to come back another day for a lead attempt, as the sun
was about to hit the wall, but in the end I set off anyway, just to
test the fall on the lower crux. Surprisingly I didn’t fall and found
myself at the top of the route! I haven’t got any footage
unfortunately, so I link you a video of the route above.</span>
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Ramsvikslandet Grosshamn
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<br />
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<span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">The last two days we went for more offwidths: a classic one called
<b><i>Laybacksprickan</i></b> 7 (6c) at <i>Björkberget</i>, which is a
nice hand/hand sized crack, and a new one called
<b><i>Squeezebulb</i></b> 7 (6c) at <i>Hunnebostrand</i>, a short
chickenwing size sort of chimney (wide #6). I managed to onsight both,
which is rare for me, so I was quite satisfied! We also had time to go
back to <i>Häller</i> for some bouldering one last time before
leaving, where I climbed “<b><i>Lone Wolf</i></b>” 7c+/8a, which I briefly tried the year before, but was too hard to
do in the heat.</span>
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Squeezebulb, 6c, Hunnebostrand
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<span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">August 2021 has been good with weather: not too rainy, not too hot.
We finally managed to enjoy Bohuslän for 11 days, which is
definitely not enough, and I strongly recommend you to stay longer
if you can! ;) We will definitely try to come back to this place
again, as it has so much to offer. Probably the best period for a
visit are springtime and autumn, when temperatures are a bit cooler
and you don’t have to constantly escape the sun.</span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeeRx46OBFBoVT5aDg8Rj2uDo9azxZllbfIyGyoWownKmU35RKAE1YO9Wccmwx6riZuqq8YlhfzE7Kit8gRAzCszNY4rfYMTiaoTt5cAiQXAk4GL4VZ1jhQfD6HlgBVHeAf_3PwD9txF0/s1617/DSC07681.jpg" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1617" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeeRx46OBFBoVT5aDg8Rj2uDo9azxZllbfIyGyoWownKmU35RKAE1YO9Wccmwx6riZuqq8YlhfzE7Kit8gRAzCszNY4rfYMTiaoTt5cAiQXAk4GL4VZ1jhQfD6HlgBVHeAf_3PwD9txF0/s600/DSC07681.jpg" width="450" /></a>
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Sotekanalen
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<span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;"><div style="font-size: 13.3333px; text-align: justify;">
<span face=""Helvetica",sans-serif" lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">For those interested in this place I’ll link this film called
“Crackoholic”, like the route. It explains a lot of its story and
its ethics, and don’t worry: not all the routes are as scary as
the ones you will see in the video! There is plenty of easy and
safe, and even <i>hard</i> and safe routes to do as well. See you
next time Bohuslän!</span>
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Michele Caminatihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04009755354934828297noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4780108708516896497.post-46164564454214062292021-04-08T17:47:00.005+02:002023-12-14T18:11:07.315+01:00 Virgolo Cracks<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Quest'anno è stato un anno veramente particolare per chi come me era abituato a viaggiare un sacco sia per arrampicare che per lavoro. Trovarsi chiusi in un comune che nonostante sia circondato dalla natura comprende ben poco di quest'ultima all'interno dei suoi confini è stato ancora più difficile.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_7HhWzj3w0BJ-LyFnLQAIMDnoE5e9sABSQELDBYbVPVizBnGaS5i7fYJEzt9cDbAiOu02PXfTfbCPa3EfnGDRrjK3_U0KzUKCAldR-gHaQdPhdHqEX4u5ZXZHH-5iEVGgQOukBvxh5s4/s2048/DSC07362.jpg" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="1366" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_7HhWzj3w0BJ-LyFnLQAIMDnoE5e9sABSQELDBYbVPVizBnGaS5i7fYJEzt9cDbAiOu02PXfTfbCPa3EfnGDRrjK3_U0KzUKCAldR-gHaQdPhdHqEX4u5ZXZHH-5iEVGgQOukBvxh5s4/s1600/DSC07362.jpg" width="450" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Per fortuna un piccolo monte con un po' di rocce lo abbiamo anche all'interno del comune di Bolzano, e il caso vuole che sia proprio dietro casa. Così da un anno a questa parte le esplorazioni sono state parecchie, in un primo momento in cerca di blocchi, ma con il passare del tempo sono riuscito a trovare anche una piccola falesia che mai era stata presa in considerazione.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0N_DeZswGfXo01Ir6JFXFf7_omacJzzizo26XvnvE37SLs91Ua9eDtGMkvPe-NQwRc4vc6vBWH7LEy9aSWMlfym227utK13jS55cNbUQ_VyvgUGxSZo1jDAg7AKkQJ4LEHOVAb78a6kk/s2048/DSC04313.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="1368" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0N_DeZswGfXo01Ir6JFXFf7_omacJzzizo26XvnvE37SLs91Ua9eDtGMkvPe-NQwRc4vc6vBWH7LEy9aSWMlfym227utK13jS55cNbUQ_VyvgUGxSZo1jDAg7AKkQJ4LEHOVAb78a6kk/s1600/DSC04313.jpg" width="450" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Photo: Claudia Amatruda</span></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">L'accesso non è certo tra i più semplici e nemmeno il posto tra i più comodi, ma la fortuna ha voluto che in pochi metri di parete si concentrassero ben cinque linee in fessura che aspettavano solo di essere pulite. In fin dei conti l'ambiente della parete è perfetto per chi ha voglia di avventura, o comunque qualcosa di diverso dalla solita uscita in falesia.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdViuSSAXSBhR0xHZM8l4Yl7HEc7BdvhpZerl_wzo7RSedi2CD2kZOt3Q1iG1yhhZQK1l_K08jcgFxZHtL1aRq_kvtXt_ucO_5SpHkaLC2lpAhaYIWN1sM1yxFNDrR8DdxEydHP8FfsVk/s2048/DSC08907.jpg" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1366" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdViuSSAXSBhR0xHZM8l4Yl7HEc7BdvhpZerl_wzo7RSedi2CD2kZOt3Q1iG1yhhZQK1l_K08jcgFxZHtL1aRq_kvtXt_ucO_5SpHkaLC2lpAhaYIWN1sM1yxFNDrR8DdxEydHP8FfsVk/s1600/DSC08907.jpg" width="450" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Così a Novembre ho iniziato i lavori di pulizia. La roccia è talvolta ottima, qualche altra un po' meno, le fessure si presentavano poi spesso parzialmente ostruite da sassi o terra. Ci è voluto un gran lavoro per preparare tutte le linee, e uno forse ancora più lungo per preparare i sentieri e le corde che consentono di arrivare alla base della falesia e spostarsi da una fessura all'altra.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7cp5befPHcaIuOi3IsX5k5JJPfafti6xBZtSWN-q034gEeiSMe1xnwWWeJxvmIhUJSW4SF600MN8AycuJjbAfrna8nC71AbRu1Z2bnvG-dWkqtrCFVagLqowOa1Z3wNuQK3Y11v1yEKo/s2048/DSC08990.jpg" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="1366" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7cp5befPHcaIuOi3IsX5k5JJPfafti6xBZtSWN-q034gEeiSMe1xnwWWeJxvmIhUJSW4SF600MN8AycuJjbAfrna8nC71AbRu1Z2bnvG-dWkqtrCFVagLqowOa1Z3wNuQK3Y11v1yEKo/s1600/DSC08990.jpg" width="450" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Non so quante volte ho fatto avanti/indietro carico come un mulo per il ripido sentiero di Virgolo, quante ore a martellare per togliere i sassi dalle fessure e quante a segare arbusti. Per mesi praticamente tutto il tempo libero che avevo a disposizione non lo ho dedicato all'arrampicata ma alla pulizia. E' la prima volta che dedico così tanto tempo a qualcosa che non sia un mio progetto. Qualcosa che in fin dei conti è più per gli altri che per me stesso, dato che i gradi di queste vie non sono certo elevati.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSqGNteoqpsOV_DV-4CkTUIy7Wr6LG43lZwo9rrRC1dUDPr_Ee_Sr9DLpQT17jlUtg-WoSH2GKuHYgwsCkoiohOxBYaJ5oTMcvbA7q80-yr6JG6YyLiJO6ulVzCiCyl5TGjrf7uCayE-I/s2048/%25C2%25A9TristanHobson-8256.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="1362" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSqGNteoqpsOV_DV-4CkTUIy7Wr6LG43lZwo9rrRC1dUDPr_Ee_Sr9DLpQT17jlUtg-WoSH2GKuHYgwsCkoiohOxBYaJ5oTMcvbA7q80-yr6JG6YyLiJO6ulVzCiCyl5TGjrf7uCayE-I/s1600/%25C2%25A9TristanHobson-8256.jpg" width="450" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Photo: Tristan Hobson</span></td></tr></tbody></table></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Sicuramente comunque mi sono divertito a preparare e salire questi itinerari, non difficili ma certamente avventurosi. Ho messo infatti solo le soste, e salire dal basso con le protezioni, richiede sicuramente più sforzi di quelli che il grado suggerisce... soprattutto la più larga "<i>Fessura del Gufo</i>" che necessita di parecchia attenzione e sangue freddo.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibgLqj6bQWXinPSzM1AzXwnJdlwhAV2UarnQsnJqRfBLJkbl1B3G3FLJkULgJReJuR03zd3jFzr6-u-py_d0HA6eIetHOgy0Xi50Ufe8FXf3X4mE9ckeG5vNfiqqi9JH2PEysF9WeOr1g/s2048/%25C2%25A9TristanHobson-8294.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="1362" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibgLqj6bQWXinPSzM1AzXwnJdlwhAV2UarnQsnJqRfBLJkbl1B3G3FLJkULgJReJuR03zd3jFzr6-u-py_d0HA6eIetHOgy0Xi50Ufe8FXf3X4mE9ckeG5vNfiqqi9JH2PEysF9WeOr1g/s1600/%25C2%25A9TristanHobson-8294.jpg" width="450" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Photo: Tristan Hobson</span></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Vi lascio quindi una piccola guida per andare a scoprire queste fessure. All'interno troverete tutte le indicazioni necessarie all'accesso e le informazioni sul materiale che è necessario portare per arrampicare. Vi prego di rispettare la roccia e la natura, la falesia potrebbe vedere anche la nascita di qualche itinerario a spit al di fuori delle fessure, ma vi prego di contattarmi se foste interessati allo sviluppo. Buone arrampicate!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibw8RnI1MWge06rFzlKDS8hAH7ey_8xED5tbWvyDZ2XyVhRJVWcT6qu2RAJqTWvI66Wd8CMZyIzQbbekVNNcReuzHpFpYbPSgvGj4MGOgTDd4-dxf_WnfyD4k678EATgqYItMeeVdyOb4/s2048/virgolo.jpg" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="1364" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibw8RnI1MWge06rFzlKDS8hAH7ey_8xED5tbWvyDZ2XyVhRJVWcT6qu2RAJqTWvI66Wd8CMZyIzQbbekVNNcReuzHpFpYbPSgvGj4MGOgTDd4-dxf_WnfyD4k678EATgqYItMeeVdyOb4/s1600/virgolo.jpg" width="450" /></a><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;">-> <a href="http://www.michelecaminati.com/virgolo.pdf" target="_blank">SCARICA QUI IL .PDF DELLA GUIDA</a> <-</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Le vie:</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">-Mezzogiorno di fuoco, 6a+</div><div style="text-align: left;">-Larga ma non troppo, 6b+</div><div style="text-align: left;">-Fessura del Gufo, 6b</div><div style="text-align: left;">-Variante delle Civetta, 6b+</div><div style="text-align: left;">-Black Mamba, 6c</div><div style="text-align: left;">-Fight Club, 7a</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrqawD1JLj5y-t3-MJlFJ_2Fs1OI1A0TtLlA2FKElqw9pHBnEa1yM2SzDCLPhES24tUQ_NjpQ9cEAvDl_-BhG-OBQ2sqKLW23gyeOtxQewSCS-AsGA8uGQqQdHebnfB9BCabNNsnnfH5o/s2048/DSC04414-Modifica.jpg" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1374" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrqawD1JLj5y-t3-MJlFJ_2Fs1OI1A0TtLlA2FKElqw9pHBnEa1yM2SzDCLPhES24tUQ_NjpQ9cEAvDl_-BhG-OBQ2sqKLW23gyeOtxQewSCS-AsGA8uGQqQdHebnfB9BCabNNsnnfH5o/s1600/DSC04414-Modifica.jpg" width="450" /></a></div></div></div>Michele Caminatihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04009755354934828297noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4780108708516896497.post-5321050607813116992020-03-23T11:36:00.000+01:002020-03-23T11:36:21.615+01:00Greenspit<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
My personal story with Greenspit starts back in 2012. At the time I was
mainly a boulderer, but being one of the first Italians to have done some hard
gritstone routes during my visits in the Peak District I was invited to the
international trad climbing meeting promoted by CAAI in Orco valley. At the
meeting climbers from all over the word would team up to climb the most famous
trad routes in the valley, and it was a great occasion for me to discover
something new... in fact all the experience I had was placing one or two pieces
of gear to protect a tall boulder where it's best not to fall!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD1CUg02OarGIFgctKLHtmV8C7zIl0l3LVNs-tVoe63nQAHxK4pD1TPWNORckTMS1OOpw1HTn4TpZnkQtKkqvKKNbg6wZpSOu9PbPFdjSvTQz4ktyvtsGVv9ch3Y5EtP5QbUFHiOdLnYY/s1600/20171007_135653.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD1CUg02OarGIFgctKLHtmV8C7zIl0l3LVNs-tVoe63nQAHxK4pD1TPWNORckTMS1OOpw1HTn4TpZnkQtKkqvKKNbg6wZpSOu9PbPFdjSvTQz4ktyvtsGVv9ch3Y5EtP5QbUFHiOdLnYY/s600/20171007_135653.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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In that occasion I met Pete Whittaker, and one day together with him and
a small crew we went to Greenspit, as he'd done it the previous year and
wanted to take a few pictures on the route. That day I also tried Greenspit
myself; back then I was probably stronger than now, but I knew nothing about
crack climbing: I obviously found the thing desperate! I could just do a few of
the initial moves, which are by far the easiest, but I was fascinated. From
that day I decided I wanted to learn how to crack climb, to see if one day I
would also be able to climb Greenspit. (At the time probably the hardest crack
in Europe and the icon of this climbing style)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDKz3vuh3M_EYOToJAcQ7wf7sLOvaqzMcWr2ftroCpZPpg_VghscJcsuqKofYgSYuZDNvywW64fKYmNn4kRMjZTU2U9DRjNEwu9Xd9Qsq2kwlgw3IRElDIRWq0CayIRq3Wg6-dPcehW98/s1600/190927_MG_2231.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="675" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDKz3vuh3M_EYOToJAcQ7wf7sLOvaqzMcWr2ftroCpZPpg_VghscJcsuqKofYgSYuZDNvywW64fKYmNn4kRMjZTU2U9DRjNEwu9Xd9Qsq2kwlgw3IRElDIRWq0CayIRq3Wg6-dPcehW98/s1600/190927_MG_2231.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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So I began my apprenticeship climbing as much as I could in Cadarese, at
the time a newly developed trad climbing crag in Ossola valley. With lots of
pilgrimages over a couple of years I managed to repeat all the classic lines
such as <i>"The Doors"</i>, <i>"Book Cake"</i>,<i> "Turkey Crack" </i>and <i>"Mustang"</i>, building confidence
in my jamming skills and gear placement. Now time had come to go back on
Greenspit!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIh86KGhD9Ft2zCRXTV6SnrTnVpRSO6w95EhWnfEoVbEvAJzLTX1NmdZfkz38Lq-8tXWcdXRVVkJn1EzccnR136obtJL7BXfhKSzaRwhEU2x4XEwss2SWBfjweN0WJJKMGZ3KUaLQk6Ls/s1600/190927_MG_2339.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="675" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIh86KGhD9Ft2zCRXTV6SnrTnVpRSO6w95EhWnfEoVbEvAJzLTX1NmdZfkz38Lq-8tXWcdXRVVkJn1EzccnR136obtJL7BXfhKSzaRwhEU2x4XEwss2SWBfjweN0WJJKMGZ3KUaLQk6Ls/s1600/190927_MG_2339.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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It was in 2015 or 16 when I went back on the route and started to try it
properly. I have to say everything was difficult: first of all it was not easy
to find somebody willing to come and try it (there's almost nothing else to
climb nearby), and secondly it was quite a long way from Parma to Orco valley.
Three long hours driving, which I've done a few times there and back also in a
day. I have to say I could see progress: I was now able to climb efficiently
through every section, but there was especially a thin one near the end where I
really struggled to jam due to my big hands. It's not even the crux, but every
time I got there from the beginning it would just spit me out.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTyH8uEjdw8W6HaCO5iEtWCqqmgExoqRc_-sCoa9IEkYDLEzP8jl5jpDYEA9fEwVDwKYnECxpUH671KFOHIvTT3FE2tOwrQC-nEHGM7SRj_NFxq__o1UOoq-SuQfh884ulp1bdlkZtc5k/s1600/IMG_20191011_002109_122.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="478" data-original-width="640" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTyH8uEjdw8W6HaCO5iEtWCqqmgExoqRc_-sCoa9IEkYDLEzP8jl5jpDYEA9fEwVDwKYnECxpUH671KFOHIvTT3FE2tOwrQC-nEHGM7SRj_NFxq__o1UOoq-SuQfh884ulp1bdlkZtc5k/s600/IMG_20191011_002109_122.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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Then it came 2017, a year that changed my life quite a bit. In March
during a new trip to the Peak District I had a ground fall while I was climbing "<i>The Elder Statesman</i>" at
Curbar. I fell from something like 14 meters, the rope got cut by the
sharp edge of the arête, and I found myself on the ground together with my
belayer Claudia whom I hit on the way down. The results were broken heel and
wrist, and it took four painful months of rehab before slowly being able to
climb easy stuff again. In the meanwhile I also decided to move to Sheffield to
live with Claudia, and of course that put a temporary stop to my story with
Greenspit. A stop which I feared could be permanent, as my wrist never
recovered completely from the injury, and its limited flexibility makes me struggle a lot with undercuts, such as the key finger lock on the route!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRjGeN3zlgbWN6mqGnq3-wS1KGTcyGS-7jp8JkEkPlsfAW89RU6lcGSnY58LJi_Abd4kqpL8RvEREEx4mZdCckXBPwnyPs9HzNGXTQK5nU4HSOPrqk4y8EbOi4ZAXJDoAfgpSBrQve_nE/s1600/Untitled-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="675" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRjGeN3zlgbWN6mqGnq3-wS1KGTcyGS-7jp8JkEkPlsfAW89RU6lcGSnY58LJi_Abd4kqpL8RvEREEx4mZdCckXBPwnyPs9HzNGXTQK5nU4HSOPrqk4y8EbOi4ZAXJDoAfgpSBrQve_nE/s1600/Untitled-1.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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At the end of 2018 we moved back to Italy, precisely in Bolzano, and the
desire of climbing Greenspit came back to my head as strong as ever. <i>Will I be able to do all the moves on the
route again?</i> A short session with a friend was a happy surprise for me: I
could still do every move including the crux! Fortunately it doesn't involve
jamming every finger in the crack, the index stays out, so I don't have to bend
the wrist all the way.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicPjF4HP37aM6BsUnGsjJWE2heF8MU0fXRup297lAs2nl4-nBfn2ZUTLJ_ArowglnWY0plhBdWz9jmtkz38dSl3TaA_Owsmqv2wFK3vSG7nUKjtTm9kwFmdNq_5fEBpdwxfqZF8S_LBeM/s1600/IMG_20191011_111028_032.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="852" data-original-width="640" height="600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicPjF4HP37aM6BsUnGsjJWE2heF8MU0fXRup297lAs2nl4-nBfn2ZUTLJ_ArowglnWY0plhBdWz9jmtkz38dSl3TaA_Owsmqv2wFK3vSG7nUKjtTm9kwFmdNq_5fEBpdwxfqZF8S_LBeM/s600/IMG_20191011_111028_032.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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The season was almost over, so I had to wait until spring 2019 to come
back and try the route seriously. Bolzano is even farther than Parma from Orco,
4 hours and 30 minutes drive, so this time I had to organize everything in
advance. The first occasion was Easter holidays. I Planned one week in Orco together with Claudia, but I
just managed to try the route for three days before it started to rain heavily and
we had to leave the valley.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPI9x5MzsZj1P9cuTcrm8FZI1WKkyDUfD_MLJcIM0KyQkw8hpRCLvDSxSkM6fZqC0IvCKcNAe6el5hAGunK-Av7E5CgY8ZxCCJNRQrsNzhj1z9VVTMvM12CDjVk5x_R1v3L_wSI6KmBHw/s1600/190929_MG_2452.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="1471" data-original-width="1080" height="613" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPI9x5MzsZj1P9cuTcrm8FZI1WKkyDUfD_MLJcIM0KyQkw8hpRCLvDSxSkM6fZqC0IvCKcNAe6el5hAGunK-Av7E5CgY8ZxCCJNRQrsNzhj1z9VVTMvM12CDjVk5x_R1v3L_wSI6KmBHw/s600/190929_MG_2452.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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During those days I met <i>Matteo della
Bordella</i> and <i>Francesco Deiana</i> who
had just climbed the route placing the gear while climbing. It was not just
inspiring to watch, but it also helped me a lot: a better beta using a small
crimp instead of a jam, and better gear strategy that saved me from placing one
piece at the start. Pretty useful stuff! I was now able to climb the route
placing all the gear without too much effort, and on my best go I fell doing
the crux from the beginning. It was a shame I was forced to leave the valley
earlier, this time I felt really close to victory!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUXj5w1GRfcdn7qw3t4oAY_-EM4SdlxCtWFcJORPTltlMV0jsBgIS1cM9xcscKcqYSCTG4Hj-ZnBJjGcKMGjtzHJSUNOjKLj2E-HLm4VJXCT8L5B3NMj3Xo__0v2lidIQ6nEy6fTZ-9zU/s1600/190929_MG_2498.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="1471" data-original-width="1080" height="613" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUXj5w1GRfcdn7qw3t4oAY_-EM4SdlxCtWFcJORPTltlMV0jsBgIS1cM9xcscKcqYSCTG4Hj-ZnBJjGcKMGjtzHJSUNOjKLj2E-HLm4VJXCT8L5B3NMj3Xo__0v2lidIQ6nEy6fTZ-9zU/s600/190929_MG_2498.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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I then managed a couple of short sessions in summer, but warmer
temperatures didn't help and I was still falling at the crux near the end of
the route. So I decided to leave it for next autumn, trying to plan a longer
stay in the valley: I needed to try the route with fresh body memory, but also
some time to recover in between sessions, as it's quite intense on your skin
and bones.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBxgLE8SwUCrEs6HhlcfRrxsoKypEZkSwFz82Wmo7KB3M1R_V20QnOnLACYz4l-TSFcYiGvIBDvnOTd054rEG2DCxcEZ-rUwvTOOnYV23gUIUSZEWhQu-qsNN_aW7jl5c0RDanyf0jGC8/s1600/190929_MG_2565.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="1440" data-original-width="1080" height="600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBxgLE8SwUCrEs6HhlcfRrxsoKypEZkSwFz82Wmo7KB3M1R_V20QnOnLACYz4l-TSFcYiGvIBDvnOTd054rEG2DCxcEZ-rUwvTOOnYV23gUIUSZEWhQu-qsNN_aW7jl5c0RDanyf0jGC8/s600/190929_MG_2565.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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So last October I finally had the opportunity to stay in Orco one week. Conditions
were perfect but it was quite cold and I found out I could not just warm up on
the route as I usually did. It would take me at least three tries before
getting warm enough, and by the time I was already exhausted . Time was running
out, just two days remaining to try the route, I had to change something! So we
thought about climbing some easier routes in the sunny crag of <i>Bosco </i>before going to Greenspit, and it
turned out to make the difference. On 9th of October I finally managed to climb
the route with the gear already in place, and two days later, on Friday the
11th, I did the redpoint placing it all on lead.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk6-la9QcTwD08a4eCLnk41xsbscT-bw5CO5mL7qnGckuNoQb-vWsQmCexl37D6sWmLGi2283lZeQ4cWPN8rSgQ2Nj9IoiQ_22SwAsPx4tNZ7Kl1clCfTAALwFOitVU-2xppYwMjPhvjM/s1600/191010_MG_3066.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="675" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk6-la9QcTwD08a4eCLnk41xsbscT-bw5CO5mL7qnGckuNoQb-vWsQmCexl37D6sWmLGi2283lZeQ4cWPN8rSgQ2Nj9IoiQ_22SwAsPx4tNZ7Kl1clCfTAALwFOitVU-2xppYwMjPhvjM/s600/191010_MG_3066.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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I don't think that placing gear makes a huge difference on Greenspit, but
it makes it for sure a bigger challenge. There's more that can go wrong when
placing friends: you may drop them or they might get stuck. The result is
always a waste of energy, not to mention you have to get them out as well! In
addition I had to skip a placement near the crux (I could barely clip it if
already in place) and do the exit relying on a single piece, which made
everything more thrilling...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5-ex_QBQve_322VePEtLJG_bHuPzkvZnxMUXoBkjYGYUQ-VXRy-V7wa5A5xTUmHC-tWCy8iZB4kqFDV42JSeOspbxmnkEjXKvo8j1QFXyIVAwiFgiv3mB7yXEfnE4eD-dcvy2T1nANDA/s1600/P1290487.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5-ex_QBQve_322VePEtLJG_bHuPzkvZnxMUXoBkjYGYUQ-VXRy-V7wa5A5xTUmHC-tWCy8iZB4kqFDV42JSeOspbxmnkEjXKvo8j1QFXyIVAwiFgiv3mB7yXEfnE4eD-dcvy2T1nANDA/s600/P1290487.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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I have to thank a lot Paolo Seimandi for all the help and the beautiful pictures.
Without him probably Greenspit would still be a dream for me! Now I feel very
happy, but at the same time empty, I'll have to find something else that keeps
my motivation so high... I'm sure it won't take long though!</div>
Michele Caminatihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04009755354934828297noreply@blogger.com010080 Rosone TO, Italia45.4307948 7.433860099999998645.4085028 7.3935195999999985 45.4530868 7.4742005999999988tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4780108708516896497.post-30919791889032670142017-04-17T18:01:00.000+02:002017-04-18T14:55:12.989+02:00Peak 2017 - The Elder Statesman<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
The last two years I didn't manage to travel much. Apart from some short trips to <i>Ceuse</i>, <i>Albarracin</i> or <em>Verdon</em>, I spent most of my time climbing near home and I was starting to miss that feeling of extreme freedom a long trip gives you. This year, as I had some changes in my life, I felt it was time to hit the road again and come back to a place I was missing so much: <i>Sheffield</i> and <i>the Peak District</i>, where I have some of my best memories.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinc8mJiDuHX90uJQqVPX5rIEOXVGFLT69GIMF0lmjCrIXH5awjA-Ny7UEfFAWNv1GWLeuNQby_jNyGy3aFwAPE23r5WXvQapUugVVkMk4fvZgASb-0Sjr8Cs7w3-1poj9zGeDBS3CfM5I/s1600/20170316_104523.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinc8mJiDuHX90uJQqVPX5rIEOXVGFLT69GIMF0lmjCrIXH5awjA-Ny7UEfFAWNv1GWLeuNQby_jNyGy3aFwAPE23r5WXvQapUugVVkMk4fvZgASb-0Sjr8Cs7w3-1poj9zGeDBS3CfM5I/s600/20170316_104523.jpg" width="450" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Short stop in Font on the way to Sheffield...</td></tr>
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Fortunately a friend would help me, and a plan was made. Getting to Sheffield for the CWIF and remaining there a couple of weeks to get the most I could out of gritstone. Then back to Fontainebleau on my way home, where I would join Italian friends to spend the last week of my holiday.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRtQoHa3kzcdcFgMn24EdaEcvCc78q9a3PxDepq97kwI7HlWZB5IlyhbryjbuAcOP3g_8T1ap4Qo-zG5apuBrJ6Qf6QQbfwDTAzhnv9frXRjE7RFedxdNU_0KSInWCN3YNH7_UVuLSGlw/s1600/DSC03722.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRtQoHa3kzcdcFgMn24EdaEcvCc78q9a3PxDepq97kwI7HlWZB5IlyhbryjbuAcOP3g_8T1ap4Qo-zG5apuBrJ6Qf6QQbfwDTAzhnv9frXRjE7RFedxdNU_0KSInWCN3YNH7_UVuLSGlw/s600/DSC03722.jpg" width="450" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Cork Stone - Photo: Claudia Amatruda</td></tr>
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The CWIF was fun as usual, and it was a pleasure to compete in the Wild Country team together with friends. I soon realized this time I was there just for fun and no longer had the competitive spirit or will to succeed I used to have back in the years... all I was thinking about was getting back on the <i>Grit</i> as soon as possible!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPvzVWhgAR7Qh48LAC7DtALbd84Ztn4dEhRqnnLgzNtTbmxW_do27U8GysG1Ih43OqYZljmClex2GKCgtZwgF66hXCWMjOtfr5RvgCs-SBVXvDWXC44DkMXerdDE0PEJjcvz4RCd1yNgo/s1600/DSC04701.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPvzVWhgAR7Qh48LAC7DtALbd84Ztn4dEhRqnnLgzNtTbmxW_do27U8GysG1Ih43OqYZljmClex2GKCgtZwgF66hXCWMjOtfr5RvgCs-SBVXvDWXC44DkMXerdDE0PEJjcvz4RCd1yNgo/s600/DSC04701.jpg" width="450" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Burbage Valley infrared</td></tr>
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The first days after the competition were quite chilly and rainy, but I still managed to get out for some bouldering sessions in the evening, to get the feeling back with this strange rock and with proper English weather too! I also tried to get back to Voyager once... but it was still dripping wet :(</div>
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Weather improved quickly, and it soon got nice and warm... time for some routes?? I had many in my mind I wanted to climb, and I was lucky to meet Claudia, who was off from work, to go climbing with.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the way to Voyager...</td></tr>
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We decided to get to <i>Millstone</i> as a first day to get some practice with routes, as both of us haven't been trad climbing for quite a long time. I spotted a rarely repeated E7 by Ron Fawcett called "<i>Scritto's Republic</i>", while Claudia could test her skills placing gear on the classic crack of "<i>Embankment 3</i>". As we first got there the wall was still dripping, but the heat was crazy and the sun quickly dried everything.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Claudia on Mark's Roof Left Hand</td></tr>
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After a couple of top-rope inspections to check the gear and the moves I decided to give it a go. It was quite late, the temperature had dropped a bit and the sunset light made everything orange, exactly like four years before when I climbed the nearby <i>Master's Edge</i>. I set off, but at first I could not commit on the crux of the route way above the two tiny pads we had and jumped off. "<i>Well, here we are again, I know this feeling...</i>". Five minutes later I found myself past the crux and above the first unsecure piece of gear: I didn't work the top part that well and I forgot I had to change hand on a mono!!! Easy on top-rope but on lead it's totally different ;)</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Scritto's Republic - Photo: Tom Randall</td></tr>
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I somehow managed to close my eyes and do that, and I was now past my last runner which I did not trust too. Just one more tricky move before better holds, but this time I could not make the position work: "<i>How did I manage to get to that pocket!?? Shit!</i>". I was already in the state of mind of taking a fall when I managed to jam a finger in a small crack just below the pocket and reach it with the other hand... what a moment! "<i>Yes, this is Gritstone as I remembered</i>".</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset from Curbar Edge</td></tr>
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After an easy day soloing at Stanage I decided to step up the game a bit and went to Curbar to finally try "<i>The Elder Statesman</i>" HXS 7a. I had this line in my mind since I saw James Pearson's video on it. With only three ascents to date and a cool scary dyno at the top it seemed the perfect mix of something hard but not too dangerous I could start with.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Elder Statesman - Photo: Jake Thompson</td></tr>
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The first day was quite frustrating: I managed to hold the dyno something like two times out of five, but I still struggled to get into the jump position from the crack, that looked just too far away... at the end of the day I managed somehow to do every single move but with such an effort it would have been nearly impossible to stick the jump. The next day the unexpected happened: thanks to a new pair of Otaki shoes and a better sequence I managed to do twice the crux on top-rope, so after Claudia worked <i>Elder Crack</i> I didn't think twice and went for the lead before it got dark!</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Victory!</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo: Mike Hutton</td></tr>
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On the lead everything went smooth, I was not too scared and I was focused on the moves. I still did not know whether I would hold that jump or not, but I gave it a real try and I soon found myself screaming with joy at the top of the crag! I could not believe it, I've done the route and as usual I didn't have a single picture of it... Yes pictures... I had already planned to have a small shooting for Wild Country out on grit, so why not getting back on this route? It's really stunning and I would have loved a picture on it.... "<i>Yes, I'll get back the next day</i>". I was almost disappointed I didn't have the chance to test that scary but "<i>safe-ish</i>" fall!</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo: Jake Thompson</td></tr>
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The next day weather was quite grim: dark clouds on the horizon and a strong wind blowing at the top of the crag. "<i>Do I really want to do this again?</i>" Anyway I made people come here, now it was time for action. I set up the belay and did it once more on top rope, then back on the ground to sort out gear and get ready. It was quite cold. We arranged to have some slack as usual, as I was worried of hitting hard into the wall on the right if the rope was too tight. That's all I was afraid of... I trusted my gear and knew it would have been a long sideways fall, but nothing too dangerous.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">my wrist after surgery</td></tr>
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Once I got established in the jump position I was quite cold. Friction was good, but I was not feeling confident I would do it again. I tried, but could not stick the good crimp this time and I found myself flying horizontally towards the right wall. I remember thinking: "<i>I'm not in the best position to hit that wall...</i>" then something happened, and I was lying on the ground in pain. It took me a while to realize what happened. The rope cut. I hit Claudia, and we both fell on the ground. I was feeling a strong pain to my left hand and when I looked at it I saw it had collapsed into my forearm, very bad looking, but I could still move my fingers. The right ankle was also painful, I probably broke that as well, but it just didn't look as bad as my hand.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">at Hard Grit Live event</td></tr>
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Luckily for me <i>Edale Mountain Rescue Team</i> came quickly and they carried me till the car park where an ambulance took both me and Claudia to Northern General Hospital in Sheffield where I had an operation to the wrist the next morning. Claudia suffered several bruises but she was fortunately fine. My friend James managed to get in touch with my parents who took a flight to London and got there the next day.</div>
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I have been lucky. I just didn't think that could happen to a rope, and I didn't even know Steve McClure climbed it with three cause of that when he made the first ascent... you always learn something.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Claudia on La Coquille - Fontainebleau</td></tr>
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I stayed in hospital three days, and they discharged me just in time to be at the <i>Hard Grit Live </i>event in Sheffield, which was quite fun! ;). Then I drove down with Claudia and my parents to Fontainebleau, where my friends were waiting for me... this time not for climbing together unfortunately.</div>
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I have to thank the rescuers, my parents, and everybody who helped me. Special thanks to James and Claudia for their help: without them I wouldn't have had the opportunity to live this experience and tell you this story. Yes, it's been a positive experience anyway. This trip gave me back feelings I had almost forgotten and made me realize once again how much I love this place and its climbing. It will take a few months to recover now, but I can't wait to be back... there are still a couple of routes I miss on the <i>Hard Grit</i> tick list! ;)</div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/mOttmXlv8Gw/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="253" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/mOttmXlv8Gw?feature=player_embedded" width="450"></iframe></div>
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Above is the video of the fall. Be careful of what can happen to a rope in that situation. You live and learn.</div>
Michele Caminatihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04009755354934828297noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4780108708516896497.post-80098067870591397812015-11-23T12:08:00.001+01:002015-11-23T12:08:47.655+01:00Bavella, Delicatessen<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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E' da tanto tempo ormai che sognavo di mettere mano su questa mitica via aperta da Arnaud Petit nel lontano 1992... nel mare di granito delle cime di Bavella, in Corsica. Purtroppo però non avevo mai trovato l'occasione per andare a provarla, così la ho sempre tenuta li, come una di quelle cose che prima o poi mi sarei messo di impegno per fare...</div>
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Finchè un giorno di questa estate, parlando con Federica a Ceuse, ho scoperto che anche lei aveva questa via nel mirino... allora ci siamo subito detti che la cosa andava tentata!</div>
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Cinque giorni, non di più. Questo è il tempo che avevamo a disposizione per salire la via. Non avevamo idea se sarebbe stato tanto o poco, ma eravamo determinati a fare del nostro meglio.</div>
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Arriviamo lunedì notte e ci accampiamo in uno spiazzo vicino alla strada che porta al colle. Essendo ormai buio non avevamo bene idea di dove ci trovassimo, ma lo spiazzo sotto ai castagni sembrava comodo, e montate le tende siamo subito andati a dormire curiosi di vedere cosa ci avrebbe aspettato il giorno successivo.</div>
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Alle sei di mattina circa veniamo svegliati da rumori di grugniti, castagne masticate e respiri affannosi che si spingono fin quasi dentro la tenda... all' inizio rimaniamo un po' impietriti, pensando che si tratti di un branco di cinghiali, ma quando finalmente alle prime luci dell' alba decido di alzarmi e guardare, scopro che sono solo un gruppo di innocui maiali selvatici che stanno facendo colazione proprio accanto a noi... respiro di sollievo!</div>
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Il primo passo ora era quello di avventurarci nella foresta fino all' attacco della via. In molti ci avevano descritto il sentiero come difficile e intricato, ma per fortuna riusciamo (quasi) al primo colpo a trascinarci fra piante, rovi e salti di roccia fino alla forcella sommitale fra punta U Corbu e Teghie Lisce... da li il panorama è incredibile e la via si staglia davanti a noi in tutto il suo splendore.</div>
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Arrivati all'attacco capiamo subito che sarebbe stata dura: faranno circa 18°, la parete è in pieno sole e il granito è ormai caldissimo... pian piano riesco a trascinarmi in sosta alla prima bellissima lunghezza di 8b, ma mi rendo conto che per passare in libera ci vogliono ben altre condizioni.</div>
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Fessure rovescie con i piedi splalmati, canalini svasi da rimontare con i palmi, enormi piattoni e terribili scagliette di granito da tirare più su in placca, sperando di salire ancora qualche centimetro prima che ti scappi quel piede spalmato e ti faccia inesorabilmente volare di sotto...</div>
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Il secondo e il terzo tiro per fortuna sono un po' più abbordabili. Proseguiamo in alternata, e con un po' di fatica riusciamo comunque a fare tutti i singoli di queste due lunghezze. Come tipologia di arrampicata sono abbastanza simili alla prima, ma almeno presentano sezioni più facili dove si riesce a prendere un po' fiato...</div>
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... Ok: fessura svasa in dulfer, (nessun incastro possibile quindi mi è concesso! ;) ) tettino, tallonata e ribaltamento di ginocchio... ora ci troviamo nella grande nicchia sotto il tetto del tiro finale di 8a... troppo tardi ormai per tentare pure quello. Ci godiamo dall' alto il mare di nuvole che si è chiuso sotto di noi, lasciando intravvedere solo la cima di qualche guglia circostante, poi ci caliamo tra le nuvole per affrontare di nuovo il sentiero, al buio non sarà certo cosa semplice!</div>
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I giorni successivi proseguono un po' fotocopia del primo: il sole scalda la parete durante le prime ore della giornata, poi per fortuna arrivano un po' di nuvole, ma spesso non basta a raffreddare la roccia che sembra un enorme calorifero di granito rosso....</div>
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Il secondo e il terzo giorno sono dedicati a lavorare i tiri centrali, su cui abbiamo buone possibilità di riuscita, e ad andare in cima alla via. Scopriamo che le difficoltà del quarto tiro di 8a, non stanno certo nel passare i grossi tafoni per superare il tetto, ma sono tutte concentrate in quattro spit di placca appoggiata, con quasi nulla per mani e piedi... praticamente un incubo con questo caldo!</div>
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Il quarto giorno, complici anche un po' di nuvole che arrivano a mascherare il sole prima del solito, riusciamo finalmente entrambi a salire in libera i tiri di 7c+ e 7c.</div>
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Sul primo tiro abbiamo fatto progressi, ma c'è ancora una sezione in placca che è un rebus irrisolto... l'ultimo tiro di 8a per ora non ci siamo nemmeno messi a provarlo seriamente, necessiterebbe pure di una bella spazzolata per via del muschio!</div>
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Ok ultimo giorno di avventura, ormai siamo un po' affaticati dal sentiero e dalle ore di arrampicata. La pelle delle dita rimasta è poca e rovinata, ma non vogliamo mollare dato che la giornata sembra almeno partire con il piede giusto: nuvole fin dalla mattina e roccia presumibilmente fresca.</div>
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Si, oggi finalmente si sente qualcosa sotto le mani e non solo quarzi di granito caldo e sudato! Riesco a fare un buon link sul primo tiro, superando il canalino svaso e arrivando in placca con un solo rest. Qui riesco finalmente ad arcuare due croste che mi permettono di superare quella malefica spaccata da cui nei giorni precedenti non eravamo mai riusciti a tirarci fuori... ormai so che il tiro viene tutto... fosse stato così anche gli altri giorni!!</div>
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Ok proseguiamo spediti fino al tiro di 8a, con l'intenzione di guardare seriamente pure quello... in effetti scopriamo che pulendo un po' le fessure svase dal muschio e guardando bene gli appoggi si riesce davvero a passare, anche se la sensazione di precarietà di fondo rimane tutta.</div>
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Insomma, cinque giorni su "Delicatessen" sono volati. Siamo riusciti a salire in libera tre dei cinque tiri, abbiamo lottato contro il caldo e improvvisato movimenti da boulder in parete... ci siamo persi nel bosco al buio, graffiati con i rovi e preso pure qualche zecca. Ora sappiamo però che questa via è davvero alla nostra portata... insomma il sogno continua, magari la prossima volta con un po' più di fresco! ;)</div>
Michele Caminatihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04009755354934828297noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4780108708516896497.post-789131244043332692014-12-28T12:12:00.001+01:002015-01-05T09:58:47.522+01:00Un anno di transizione<div style="text-align: justify;">
E' da tantissimo che non scrivo più nulla su questo blog... non perchè non abbia più niente di interessante da raccontare, ma più che altro perchè ultimamente non riesco più a raccogliere del materiale interessante per farvi vedere i posti che ho visitato e le esperienze che ho vissuto.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOwHKhYWlGG9qvuyZY8nVmKyew2fQKR4l2sII7dwcQh-44f4crmzxwDZH5z9I6st6Tb6zkqn7x_6zTY8lDbOY5z2WqR4Unqo5Wou2aPSzC6DShjs2-Z5lif1WCGZB2Du9j-tMvjmeGbiY/s1600/DSC04067-Modifica-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOwHKhYWlGG9qvuyZY8nVmKyew2fQKR4l2sII7dwcQh-44f4crmzxwDZH5z9I6st6Tb6zkqn7x_6zTY8lDbOY5z2WqR4Unqo5Wou2aPSzC6DShjs2-Z5lif1WCGZB2Du9j-tMvjmeGbiY/s1600/DSC04067-Modifica-2.jpg" height="300" width="450" /></a></div>
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Da quando ho incominciato a scalare più spesso con la corda lo sbattimento di farsi le foto con l'autoscatto o i video dal cavalletto non sarebbe più nemmeno utile... quindi se non c'è per caso qualche amico nei paraggi che sappia usare una macchina fotografica, non mi rimane che qualche paesaggio o qualche foto scattata ad altri da poter condividere con voi.</div>
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Comunque per fortuna continuerò sempre a proporvi immagini e video: magari non sarà più nulla in cui sono diretto protagonista, ma avrò il piacere di raccontarvi esperienze e avventure vissute da qualcun altro, spero nel miglior modo possibile.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsz9z3RymuU1wWoPBH1BURAjFHqeCbyZv9h08BPmBQmxuSMNIfc7Mb_NjIXOfd8vBemA3IIQETdQSiUmCIEM38FxxzPKii90FkiffzyvCAcjMKQql2O5u2vyNqYCYalB8sUIRZqDR-aBI/s1600/IMG_0662.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsz9z3RymuU1wWoPBH1BURAjFHqeCbyZv9h08BPmBQmxuSMNIfc7Mb_NjIXOfd8vBemA3IIQETdQSiUmCIEM38FxxzPKii90FkiffzyvCAcjMKQql2O5u2vyNqYCYalB8sUIRZqDR-aBI/s1600/IMG_0662.jpg" height="300" width="450" /></a></div>
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Tutto è forse iniziato l'anno scorso al <a href="http://www.melloblocco.it/" target="_blank">Melloblocco</a>, quando per la prima volta ho avuto voglia di mettere da parte le scarpette per qualche giorno e provare a raccontarvi attraverso i miei occhi quello che è stata questa manifestazione a cui ho sempre partecipato da scalatore e a cui sono molto legato.</div>
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Dopo il Mello e la consegna del video invece è subito arrivata l'estate e con essa è stato tempo di tornare a Ceuse ad imparare a scalare in falesia... quattro brevi permanenze al campeggio <i>Les Guerins</i>, non mi hanno fatto voglia di mettermi a lavorare tiri super duri, avendo a disposizione ancora una marea di classici da non perdere e da poter chiudere in pochi giri, ho preferito ampliare il più possibile la mia collezione, cercando di fare esperienza e regalandomi anche qualche bella soddisfazione.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">star trail sopra Ceuse</td></tr>
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Dopo tante giornate passate in campeggio a scalare con amici è venuto il tempo di tornare al lavoro, ma per fortuna ne le rocce, ne gli amici sono venuti a mancare. Infatti ho avuto l'occasione di fare un bellissimo viaggio a sud in compagnia dei <i>Ragni di Lecco,</i> per girare un video sulla falesia di <b><a href="http://ragnilecco.com/frosolone-chi-era-costui/" target="_blank">Frosolone</a></b>, e un servizio fotografico su<b> <a href="http://ragnilecco.com/palinuro-vauzo-ri-santa-maria/" target="_blank">Palinuro</a></b> e il Cilento.<br />
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A Frosolone siamo stati accolti e ospitati dagli amici del posto, che tanto hanno fatto negli ultimi tempi per valorizzare la falesia e aprire nuove vie. Oltre a delle belle riprese, sono riuscito pure a scalare un po' e a ripetere una strana via di placca appoggiata che avevo chiodato l'anno precedente assieme a Luigi... la "<i>Via Crucis</i>"!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Luca Passini su Mantanavai, 8a+, Frosolone</td></tr>
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Le giornate sono trascorse tra roccia perfetta, prati, mucche, e uno splendido paesaggio che avrete il piacere di vedere fra qualche mese quando avrò terminato di lavorare al video... ovviamente non ci siamo fatti mancare cene tipiche e golosità di ogni tipo ;-) Grazie ancora a Gaetano, Luigi e Carmine... alla prossima!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">la costiera di capo Palinuro</td></tr>
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Da Frosolone siamo scesi a <b>Palinuro</b>, dove Amedeo ci ha gentilmente accompagnati a vedere le bellezze del capo e i nuovi settori di falesia che stanno nascendo. E' stato bello devo dire tornare a vedere il mare dopo tanto tempo, e soprattutto constatare che ci sono settori incredibili completamente in ombra dove è possibile scalare anche d'estate e conciliare entrambe le cose.</div>
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Le giornate sono state davvero faticose: un po' di tiri in falesia, un po' di jumar per fare le foto, e magari un po' di spiaggia verso sera... qua e la è pure venuto qualche bel tiro, con la ripetizione di alcune vie tra cui spiccano "<i>Core a Core</i>" (chiodata e liberata da Luca l'anno precedente) e la prima libera di "<i>Panzarotti</i>", corto e violento 8a+ su buchetti svasi. Il posto è incredibile e vede ancora numerosi progetti che aspettano solo di essere chiodati e provati. Un grosso grazie ad Amedeo ed Oreste per aver valorizzato e sviluppato il posto!</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Luca Passini rispettivamente su Panzarotti e Core a Core al Vauzo</td></tr>
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Dopo un' ultima divertente mattinata passata a fare deep water solo con il pedalò ho dovuto salutare i miei amici e rientrare a casa. Era tempo di tornare ad allenarsi, dato che un' estate passata a scalare in falesia e a far foto mi aveva dato si tanta resistenza in corpo ma purtroppo aveva quasi annientato il livello di forza...</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Io durante la prima salita di Panzarotti. foto: Luca Passini</td></tr>
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Ci voleva quindi qualcosa di transitorio, e così settembre è stato il mese di <b>Cadarese</b>. Finalmente di nuovo fatica, incastri, sangue e ferraglia! Era da tanto tempo che sognavo di tornare a Cadarese per provare a salire una delle linee che è stata fra i miei sogni negli ultimi due anni: <i>The Doors</i>. Ero proprio curioso di vedere se l'allenamento di resistenza dell' estate avrebbe portato i suoi frutti, dato che sapevo che su quella via era solamente una lotta contro la ghisa.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Doors 8a? - Cadarese</td></tr>
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In effetti l'allenamento Ceuse aveva funzionato a meraviglia! Ora ero in grado di stare a sghisare su una tacca prima della sezione chiave in cima, dove l'anno precedente più volte avevo agguantato il friend in mano per moschettonare... Così al secondo giorno di tentativi sono finalmente riuscito a chiudere i conti con la via, dopo essere volato una volta con l'ultima presa d'uscita ormai in mano... uff!</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Django 7b+ - Cadarese</td></tr>
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Dopo The Doors mi rimaneva solo una delle quattro grandi classiche di Cadarese da ripetere, e si trattava di <i>Mustang</i>, un perfido fessurino di dita con un blocco di entrata all' ingresso. Avendolo già provato l'anno precedente in una giornata di condizioni decenti sono riuscito a salirlo, così subito dopo mi sono concentrato su una bellissima via in parte, scovata e pulita da Giovanni Ongaro: <i>Django</i>, un' altra fessura di dita appoggiata che a guardarla sembrerebbe 6a, invece...</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La Spada di Damocle, 7b - Photo: Jacopo Larcher</td></tr>
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Alla fine ci sono voluti tre giorni di tentativi per fare la prima salita, e così il grado si assesta a 7b+... un po' più facile di Mustang, ma neanche tanto. Ultima giorata a Cadarese della stagione invece ha visto la prima salita della "<i>Spada di Damocle</i>" altro interessantissimo diedro pulito e "sostato" da Riky Felderer e Stefano Frabetti. Questa via non è durissima ma presenta un paio di metri apparentemente senza appigli o fessure di sorta.... siccome la ho salita in giornata però non può essere più di 7b!! ;-)</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Simone Pedeferri su "La Divina Commedia"</td></tr>
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Ottobre invece è stato tempo di tornare ai video, e ho seguito Simone Pedeferri in due interessanti progetti di ripresa: il primo riguarda una via dal nome "<i>La Divina Commedia</i>" che ha aperto assieme a Luca Schiera nell' impressionante grotta del Buco del Piombo di Erba. Il secondo invece preferisco tenerlo ancora top secret per ora, dato che si tratta del lavoro di cui sono più soddisfatto e a cui ho dedicato più tempo... la Divina Commedia comunque uscirà a breve online, ed ecco qui il trailer:</div>
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Novembre purtroppo è stato un mese funestato dal cattivo tempo e da qualche malattia, ma per fortuna sono riuscito a far di nuovo visita ai miei amici di Frosolone e fare pure un salto per due blocchi a Meschia, tornando a gustare le sensazioni dell' arenaria che ormai avevo dimenticato da tempo...</div>
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A Dicembre invece per fortuna è tornato a splendere il sole, e con esso è tornata tanta motivazione e tanta voglia di scalare... i progetti non mancano di certo, sia in arrampicata che in fotografia, e solo il tempo poi potrà dire cosa porterà con se questo 2015!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0zb4uqy72gf-nNICaI6NBtqYwWxa3oA5n71vS99ab4F_DuCZySPhc-JhnKDll0incs44rsAjMFXfkYm3MlXcZ2TY1ZeLQH7M6Vuz8OhldIPn3Q9CoEv5N90lnaQ4bzZSJRSpQBLVM4co/s1600/DSC06958_9hdr-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0zb4uqy72gf-nNICaI6NBtqYwWxa3oA5n71vS99ab4F_DuCZySPhc-JhnKDll0incs44rsAjMFXfkYm3MlXcZ2TY1ZeLQH7M6Vuz8OhldIPn3Q9CoEv5N90lnaQ4bzZSJRSpQBLVM4co/s1600/DSC06958_9hdr-2.jpg" height="300" width="450" /></a></div>
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Michele Caminatihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04009755354934828297noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4780108708516896497.post-29234513399140495362014-05-01T13:53:00.001+02:002014-05-01T13:55:03.229+02:00Sardinia Crack Attack !<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Back in summer 2007 I had a bad ankle injury during a bouldering competition, it needed surgery and I could not climb for at least four months. My parents decided to bring me in Sardinia for a sea holiday: I was supposed to be just relaxing, swimming and maybe fishing.</div>
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We ended up in a house on La Maddalena island, just behind a promontory made of a beautiful red granite. Rocks and boulders were almost everywhere on the island, and my holiday ended up being a bloc scouting tour on my crutches, most of the times under a burning sun and between strong biting bushes.</div>
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During one of my trips I discovered a stunning, hearth shaped granite boulder, which was split by a huge crack and was about 45° overhanging. It was on top of a perfect rocky plateau in front of the sea, with some nice granite boulders surrounding it.</div>
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At the time it seemed quite a futuristic thing to climb for me: I was just a boulderer walking on crutches, and that crack seemed way to tall and hard. Anyway that day I added a new line to my personal list of things I wanted to accomplish one day...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-zjec9gqHeIxxfpA6-tHHr-3D-ejYl7ZdpH8B1EbnkW-38-HB4-I3tAzV5njLrVldy10Hjh0SymGCDxSrV3WFWndzJTX2GKLhg0g-8_xlWo2DysmMs9uUkj8Ub79ESxOXVNddnmFSS_k/s1600/DSC04570.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-zjec9gqHeIxxfpA6-tHHr-3D-ejYl7ZdpH8B1EbnkW-38-HB4-I3tAzV5njLrVldy10Hjh0SymGCDxSrV3WFWndzJTX2GKLhg0g-8_xlWo2DysmMs9uUkj8Ub79ESxOXVNddnmFSS_k/s1600/DSC04570.jpg" height="300" width="450" /></a></div>
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November 2013, almost seven years have passed, and I go back to Sardinia with La Sportiva team to find some new boulders and try a few of the climbs I saw back in the years. We also get to climb that crack in Caprera: James Pearson manages to get the first ascent, while I miss my dream of climbing it despite being close.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgx0iqgnuNBn-pXgwWYQHcbfiSBZezv6fAVkyOi5prGoKrV3_Khpk8RpUw2F3DtLIHDW8o_KjeNuvDf0QkxEJ9MWjJXf96MdL5i_g-nUhMhRLp2uHjwO_jk3Ji3KMR1f65GwfCBUIFbRc/s1600/DSC04454.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgx0iqgnuNBn-pXgwWYQHcbfiSBZezv6fAVkyOi5prGoKrV3_Khpk8RpUw2F3DtLIHDW8o_KjeNuvDf0QkxEJ9MWjJXf96MdL5i_g-nUhMhRLp2uHjwO_jk3Ji3KMR1f65GwfCBUIFbRc/s1600/DSC04454.jpg" height="300" width="450" /></a></div>
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Last week I go back with my friend Daniele Bianchi, willing to show him some beautiful cracks and finishing my unfinished business. This time I feel ready: it's a hard task for my skills but everything goes well. After three days of efforts I stand at the top of one of my dreams. It's one of the most rewarding feelings climbing can give you...<br />
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Never stop following your dreams.</div>
Michele Caminatihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04009755354934828297noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4780108708516896497.post-66324889480198941832014-03-22T19:46:00.003+01:002014-03-22T19:46:37.815+01:00Albarracin 2014 - Photo report<div style="text-align: justify;">
After a very unlucky visit in January, where I had to lie ill in bed for four days out of six, I came back to Albarracin in early March to finally explore this world of red sandstone, which was still missing from the famous bouldering spots I visited around Europe. I won't write anything about how nice is the place or how cool are the boulders there... I will simply show you a few pictures I got, so you can judge on your own ;-)</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBaP5HIUb_5Nv0mbt7zpdKM2pA7psTRF30G6vR1Nra4KEEFDQ-pNAq6K0usYJIdGDeF5rT3-NCgT5svF0k_0tuWclgkB1Qnj6bAxhm-sHeGZbtxoVYhJ1xYtXQVUqtWiXk7SPuyhTBOV4/s1600/DSC04375.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBaP5HIUb_5Nv0mbt7zpdKM2pA7psTRF30G6vR1Nra4KEEFDQ-pNAq6K0usYJIdGDeF5rT3-NCgT5svF0k_0tuWclgkB1Qnj6bAxhm-sHeGZbtxoVYhJ1xYtXQVUqtWiXk7SPuyhTBOV4/s1600/DSC04375.jpg" height="300" width="450" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Snowy January</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgABK49xDb1AxKzFPQMx1Xhp3ybcNlspSIJJbLW6SgFfLO-6hkscZZ9_x2txtTlKZT9m5ebNJuZTh1hBMb8E905y_qYqjd5LzCQJEtCiKY9CDWhNocZZaAzebDoXZaXTm-IIwYQwIS50nk/s1600/DSC04425.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgABK49xDb1AxKzFPQMx1Xhp3ybcNlspSIJJbLW6SgFfLO-6hkscZZ9_x2txtTlKZT9m5ebNJuZTh1hBMb8E905y_qYqjd5LzCQJEtCiKY9CDWhNocZZaAzebDoXZaXTm-IIwYQwIS50nk/s1600/DSC04425.jpg" height="300" width="450" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">old town building</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqfY91uqjBSsaLv1F8xK8xHWIMgRhk5gUCnwSDh9Vm9DDDa3sK45uV1FRaW6_FqBEO_qJKmbeZvcxRmm5fz1VA91a9wKda8uz15pDXt4BN3mHTadYc9yjJdZMKGSAimIGnsKdAAQhsvcU/s1600/DSC04445.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqfY91uqjBSsaLv1F8xK8xHWIMgRhk5gUCnwSDh9Vm9DDDa3sK45uV1FRaW6_FqBEO_qJKmbeZvcxRmm5fz1VA91a9wKda8uz15pDXt4BN3mHTadYc9yjJdZMKGSAimIGnsKdAAQhsvcU/s1600/DSC04445.jpg" height="300" width="450" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from the town walls</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSHitOHhJVqEMr7hSPvjWM4aBIwbeDtN24fo6D1mB0WwU5UYJem6y7E5pF-PSEZg8g8TiFn2uHtz4ZRRpqsFJ6E12_lB9Ef-iZC0cSTsGd-MdnW3COhKnYExJPPf-Sen1oC8EPz7e8NL0/s1600/DSC04490.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSHitOHhJVqEMr7hSPvjWM4aBIwbeDtN24fo6D1mB0WwU5UYJem6y7E5pF-PSEZg8g8TiFn2uHtz4ZRRpqsFJ6E12_lB9Ef-iZC0cSTsGd-MdnW3COhKnYExJPPf-Sen1oC8EPz7e8NL0/s1600/DSC04490.jpg" height="450" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pinturas Buldestres 7c+</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid3vC_iXzGXH8srq2fJ2XozhTwTE4H4cP-x0KClKbqwHnLDNrJkg2nUmKpENTf6-H1wPULqK0ra0AuXi-6aA4BvqACL5A9KNgmGYkflRhY_PK1OuaDVCtLtl7g9as2UZheoM8qiObO3L4/s1600/DSC09424.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid3vC_iXzGXH8srq2fJ2XozhTwTE4H4cP-x0KClKbqwHnLDNrJkg2nUmKpENTf6-H1wPULqK0ra0AuXi-6aA4BvqACL5A9KNgmGYkflRhY_PK1OuaDVCtLtl7g9as2UZheoM8qiObO3L4/s1600/DSC09424.jpg" height="300" width="450" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pinturas Buldestres 7c+</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeGSSORiUBY0iFrizSFbc9kY0fjdveLGTfC-dJPO4WEBRTvEpi3pB-L7irb47E3oRD99RO3a7AC1s9aJ0qkXFxdXQgJCw_nvznGFEPlUINOB-x-8JHAZnV0X-u0CviXhRa344H4VfGWWY/s1600/DSC09381.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeGSSORiUBY0iFrizSFbc9kY0fjdveLGTfC-dJPO4WEBRTvEpi3pB-L7irb47E3oRD99RO3a7AC1s9aJ0qkXFxdXQgJCw_nvznGFEPlUINOB-x-8JHAZnV0X-u0CviXhRa344H4VfGWWY/s1600/DSC09381.jpg" height="300" width="450" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Supernafamacho 7b+</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ2J-7qcsYRwZ97qDq85F9m3XzCTC0VwGO_3ia_CHtsg3FiRZNIiVYgukWrbUPOIJ_p2q-vQFfK5FciT1XsMLGwqAVv4aB_BpSgSa71IWnwSGk73bW4mhCvHYMlQgU-ur4khu10UceCF0/s1600/DSC09965.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ2J-7qcsYRwZ97qDq85F9m3XzCTC0VwGO_3ia_CHtsg3FiRZNIiVYgukWrbUPOIJ_p2q-vQFfK5FciT1XsMLGwqAVv4aB_BpSgSa71IWnwSGk73bW4mhCvHYMlQgU-ur4khu10UceCF0/s1600/DSC09965.jpg" height="300" width="450" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">driving to the boulders</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIOunXO24f-DqjN1I9joHnuChKAkBbR53yQv_UdzvhN2pKYvO29ghPMNZ_7O0V7P1xiSDglQaCcBG39fESQ3iBisXB1YF8KagqgdAFCA-gxOKP9IQr-YGyOEQ_U3b6_pBCQoFLH770UPM/s1600/DSC09973.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIOunXO24f-DqjN1I9joHnuChKAkBbR53yQv_UdzvhN2pKYvO29ghPMNZ_7O0V7P1xiSDglQaCcBG39fESQ3iBisXB1YF8KagqgdAFCA-gxOKP9IQr-YGyOEQ_U3b6_pBCQoFLH770UPM/s1600/DSC09973.jpg" height="300" width="450" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">driving to the boulders</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyjWgZPspsJ0jH91_KS-P3ESb0ul2C6Zo5jX3I4gAcbIfRB7RePm5WdI2R1lG3iF8_n7hrvmOT0hd3dpwPm2irYbmM4soWgiXQZOa8Z0egawuevt7MEydCEZmiFJivM3s1hKSICM74VLo/s1600/DSC00477.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyjWgZPspsJ0jH91_KS-P3ESb0ul2C6Zo5jX3I4gAcbIfRB7RePm5WdI2R1lG3iF8_n7hrvmOT0hd3dpwPm2irYbmM4soWgiXQZOa8Z0egawuevt7MEydCEZmiFJivM3s1hKSICM74VLo/s1600/DSC00477.jpg" height="300" width="450" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">driving at the car park ;-)</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxSPiqkSZa5SJqRWvqsEEVfQm5zbJR9E4pgvhHAibkBj2vWsuX3xuUQI8xMr0CZ_76OixxcsbmbDQtCQWfxH31RprVSxzS51FfdFW9yL80jD3Z1N9PbSR6IYNxTTRDZwqasrdCzI7gcK8/s1600/DSC00424.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxSPiqkSZa5SJqRWvqsEEVfQm5zbJR9E4pgvhHAibkBj2vWsuX3xuUQI8xMr0CZ_76OixxcsbmbDQtCQWfxH31RprVSxzS51FfdFW9yL80jD3Z1N9PbSR6IYNxTTRDZwqasrdCzI7gcK8/s1600/DSC00424.jpg" height="300" width="450" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Esperanza 6c+</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT920uItU-J11dH6zYWEdIxMcCaZyJr-mxx8ftya4qB0oov8FESRI9DWWLFDT56dyzAWWGbn1R2mw5YYv6cVRUM2G3GjVtkOdfLJNV_bs7QTAfGrVGLKm2OJsfMQb5Q0XJ_C7Wu73JMBM/s1600/DSC00448.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT920uItU-J11dH6zYWEdIxMcCaZyJr-mxx8ftya4qB0oov8FESRI9DWWLFDT56dyzAWWGbn1R2mw5YYv6cVRUM2G3GjVtkOdfLJNV_bs7QTAfGrVGLKm2OJsfMQb5Q0XJ_C7Wu73JMBM/s1600/DSC00448.jpg" height="300" width="450" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">El Varano 7c+</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9fcYw6Z7yadYuXgV2Y1382h6mqIrKAMF-kWphZxtJ-vX779ccf3tQYpHTHtPEjicrW7owoX3KomKbrPyRbLgMotJ9BlHA9da0Gq3ayOg60TNhrgDSYXvllRQWnbSoTigCu9ndAcagxFM/s1600/DSC00789.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9fcYw6Z7yadYuXgV2Y1382h6mqIrKAMF-kWphZxtJ-vX779ccf3tQYpHTHtPEjicrW7owoX3KomKbrPyRbLgMotJ9BlHA9da0Gq3ayOg60TNhrgDSYXvllRQWnbSoTigCu9ndAcagxFM/s1600/DSC00789.jpg" height="300" width="450" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">red at sunset ...</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsYii25wa-QICw2EagJGJQyyKhMR50o37P4bOx87p2E-Hxqh3SRWUB4hK6LF3tmONtV_5IzBNLOJfkmRQc-noachuyGcbJidfw4wB3OZGGlUaguikKx8w5swj5LwREyEuEvX5_M_2eHEE/s1600/DSC00454_5_6_7hdr.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsYii25wa-QICw2EagJGJQyyKhMR50o37P4bOx87p2E-Hxqh3SRWUB4hK6LF3tmONtV_5IzBNLOJfkmRQc-noachuyGcbJidfw4wB3OZGGlUaguikKx8w5swj5LwREyEuEvX5_M_2eHEE/s1600/DSC00454_5_6_7hdr.jpg" height="300" width="450" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">... yellow at night</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRFFFxJsMnIrOjGJMgFMRjmr3QnJViVlPEFsStGC9SDwQynSlqSagDOnyDzOpYvkD_w0ohP4ihSigwZPS3KB26Yq5sex_BXbycMc3K7tQrFg2aaoznGPD4gYpbLnwRBGvNjiMVuu3r8rQ/s1600/DSC00513.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRFFFxJsMnIrOjGJMgFMRjmr3QnJViVlPEFsStGC9SDwQynSlqSagDOnyDzOpYvkD_w0ohP4ihSigwZPS3KB26Yq5sex_BXbycMc3K7tQrFg2aaoznGPD4gYpbLnwRBGvNjiMVuu3r8rQ/s1600/DSC00513.jpg" height="300" width="450" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">under the stars</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlBhpSkoYm9pNHa1E9_bwvEl9yWcas1iVZdl6Nmbm_00eiDuItTrzElkqzgyXTxDERDX5RqPPJtMRGbsLP4A3C20Q_d8OWRoVN2QWqmqkhTvAePGi9C5qyPp6Mw6x7g__XTX2rLX0f9m8/s1600/DSC09393.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlBhpSkoYm9pNHa1E9_bwvEl9yWcas1iVZdl6Nmbm_00eiDuItTrzElkqzgyXTxDERDX5RqPPJtMRGbsLP4A3C20Q_d8OWRoVN2QWqmqkhTvAePGi9C5qyPp6Mw6x7g__XTX2rLX0f9m8/s1600/DSC09393.jpg" height="450" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brainstorm 7b</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihB2rzpQmrKJT9FuPdPuJlCP7hIJYP05GLVG9gBJqnk95Rg6mKqUwmOp2n1hOdpXcT4EdjfTCHg-kNS5H8poS0rGghxGDy6olwRLf2JeICS7_wsgDzlMM7jSgl7AhNWgxg_dp5pSI25VI/s1600/DSC01028.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihB2rzpQmrKJT9FuPdPuJlCP7hIJYP05GLVG9gBJqnk95Rg6mKqUwmOp2n1hOdpXcT4EdjfTCHg-kNS5H8poS0rGghxGDy6olwRLf2JeICS7_wsgDzlMM7jSgl7AhNWgxg_dp5pSI25VI/s1600/DSC01028.jpg" height="300" width="450" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bloque Fontain 7a</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3OOWIBpeHzdKCKLvY7kUWqtpP9FBWJ-F2TINTF5k3HjNBjud55neWMyWOIt8AXbPE7xDx-oMAj4u6sVgB_gVeEU0O9jTLTnu_nQqsgLn_vXzaqWuIbJNE0fZ4ash02WmpK9FyxEsW4N4/s1600/DSC00486.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3OOWIBpeHzdKCKLvY7kUWqtpP9FBWJ-F2TINTF5k3HjNBjud55neWMyWOIt8AXbPE7xDx-oMAj4u6sVgB_gVeEU0O9jTLTnu_nQqsgLn_vXzaqWuIbJNE0fZ4ash02WmpK9FyxEsW4N4/s1600/DSC00486.jpg" height="300" width="450" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">canyons and valleys</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhminTRcKAfyyF1e3hsgUv2XiP3kxgVYK1PonqqovXa-6lQp4-9jsFuToXJNRPxQ5MyoIb8a4ZXBd1cjOSETS5UgG-6JDJmv-2zBPwVjmJ6aX6-QngqxTcn4ySGuX3FH9vt38ynosAG4Zs/s1600/DSC04391.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhminTRcKAfyyF1e3hsgUv2XiP3kxgVYK1PonqqovXa-6lQp4-9jsFuToXJNRPxQ5MyoIb8a4ZXBd1cjOSETS5UgG-6JDJmv-2zBPwVjmJ6aX6-QngqxTcn4ySGuX3FH9vt38ynosAG4Zs/s1600/DSC04391.jpg" height="300" width="450" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">walking back from Techos</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-upmVIt-yCm9s8oQWeV7crztFb0mmZteZT-hkGIC7cWFwhQdOx1nkFTocHo5L1w5lX11guKSh60l8n5F6JtlRuYdGyZzZAih_KlU0s3oT2cLMLUjak2BeD6O5b3ESd8ZJ64ZloaBDPQo/s1600/DSC00773.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-upmVIt-yCm9s8oQWeV7crztFb0mmZteZT-hkGIC7cWFwhQdOx1nkFTocHo5L1w5lX11guKSh60l8n5F6JtlRuYdGyZzZAih_KlU0s3oT2cLMLUjak2BeD6O5b3ESd8ZJ64ZloaBDPQo/s1600/DSC00773.jpg" height="300" width="450" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Ciegas 7a+</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghIaGtxm1jDSI25HIg9g5Tsaa_KBLtAUoP6TkJ8XSToF4Eqt2X3Io06bD5VIV4lnROgxbV5C1QnjKjg8khoUe9elVhD_pOxu5Ysp1EjyVCSvdP1ClYesY8GXbInS-ZBs_IEefO9pVYpII/s1600/DSC03949.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghIaGtxm1jDSI25HIg9g5Tsaa_KBLtAUoP6TkJ8XSToF4Eqt2X3Io06bD5VIV4lnROgxbV5C1QnjKjg8khoUe9elVhD_pOxu5Ysp1EjyVCSvdP1ClYesY8GXbInS-ZBs_IEefO9pVYpII/s1600/DSC03949.jpg" height="317" width="450" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Helicopters on Beaches 8b</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6GHWAyYhYWoJYLZl1ThoVaV3_-PFnJ69oruV7j1f43UkHcan_wh8vpWZqERW_vzTTnK8mQ69B_Bf22vuAbbtKLHH0w9B0EVkCgVVtVHpzUCagM2hzhGEFC8v1s-rwxG33otu-duDnXH0/s1600/mura-cielo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6GHWAyYhYWoJYLZl1ThoVaV3_-PFnJ69oruV7j1f43UkHcan_wh8vpWZqERW_vzTTnK8mQ69B_Bf22vuAbbtKLHH0w9B0EVkCgVVtVHpzUCagM2hzhGEFC8v1s-rwxG33otu-duDnXH0/s1600/mura-cielo.jpg" height="300" width="450" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old town walls</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfRMUy0C4OfySipLtiZKAuGRI4aB-JWvikrQWHSgJcuDSamWl7oEOYaoHH4rz-T2Xy6tdcUoWCxBKHTt91bDCZrZ3M1vGDUdJJufjfUoY7sJlWewoqfnat4raNsSTYaYU0Wos-Z3IlaRA/s1600/DSC01040.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfRMUy0C4OfySipLtiZKAuGRI4aB-JWvikrQWHSgJcuDSamWl7oEOYaoHH4rz-T2Xy6tdcUoWCxBKHTt91bDCZrZ3M1vGDUdJJufjfUoY7sJlWewoqfnat4raNsSTYaYU0Wos-Z3IlaRA/s1600/DSC01040.jpg" height="300" width="450" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">la Lagrima 6c</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHdI3g17toMLpL8xtJMPG4rNTOB7hLG1tyNObqfnNwNPk5nSDt91zp6a-nfsj5P9MtWzv3-i-3wAxAacIOi0Wa0B3FpmPzJGCYRFDye0RTQPCAi9UHUeCw2FLYRgMkgd7gUliotVG8Y0Q/s1600/DSC01070.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHdI3g17toMLpL8xtJMPG4rNTOB7hLG1tyNObqfnNwNPk5nSDt91zp6a-nfsj5P9MtWzv3-i-3wAxAacIOi0Wa0B3FpmPzJGCYRFDye0RTQPCAi9UHUeCw2FLYRgMkgd7gUliotVG8Y0Q/s1600/DSC01070.jpg" height="300" width="450" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">la Lagrima 6c</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwMGNmTJdYDiKP-1N_BtgXE7amPa-ZBmfiQXTkeI70Fc3WfhcxcbBnmzwkbka4S0sm_pSvuo9eoH_Z0M5UBarcdpmFZDoJV-i58Yah1aOvp105hOKvqhRjefGpXCrMW1wcCunEGycK43I/s1600/rocky-desert.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwMGNmTJdYDiKP-1N_BtgXE7amPa-ZBmfiQXTkeI70Fc3WfhcxcbBnmzwkbka4S0sm_pSvuo9eoH_Z0M5UBarcdpmFZDoJV-i58Yah1aOvp105hOKvqhRjefGpXCrMW1wcCunEGycK43I/s1600/rocky-desert.jpg" height="300" width="450" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">my ...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk6-3nKEqyDxDUTELl8tf8YbNUD0tx-To7lZZbfILVPJedNIr7SZ92HfgwCf-axqbqhjDBKjqes966nGn_CaJrjIrOTWVqj6iD9vTBdR_x7ojhczLmUmRzrfJf99C576sC8Yj74U9Lp-M/s1600/DSC00752.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk6-3nKEqyDxDUTELl8tf8YbNUD0tx-To7lZZbfILVPJedNIr7SZ92HfgwCf-axqbqhjDBKjqes966nGn_CaJrjIrOTWVqj6iD9vTBdR_x7ojhczLmUmRzrfJf99C576sC8Yj74U9Lp-M/s1600/DSC00752.jpg" height="300" width="450" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">... favourite ...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwNk8CyaJFIWUmSTPgxShkviqFEbLtnLRvLFg-MWVYIQp1H0kim5zhVOeDKWRj3iWYwOuQDmb5G-XKn4_zugUBHxHS2JioX-Kjnmdk256s_uf9hkVq4zEl0d5dc-NSy_9JWwWmM0zbDlU/s1600/Startrails5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwNk8CyaJFIWUmSTPgxShkviqFEbLtnLRvLFg-MWVYIQp1H0kim5zhVOeDKWRj3iWYwOuQDmb5G-XKn4_zugUBHxHS2JioX-Kjnmdk256s_uf9hkVq4zEl0d5dc-NSy_9JWwWmM0zbDlU/s1600/Startrails5.jpg" height="300" width="450" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">... subject !</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibeITLsAlj3svocWiBMVJiCdOb54t2ldWU9VKKpm8f-YkH7aRXeJn-mSOsuAvRCIcyudCz9Fgh3wi_RsUE7ywcUgVVTORtOHaXf6ZNW4lfJNAbND38W4eEfVVD1z8l5cp-9bzubtagpWw/s1600/DSC00762.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibeITLsAlj3svocWiBMVJiCdOb54t2ldWU9VKKpm8f-YkH7aRXeJn-mSOsuAvRCIcyudCz9Fgh3wi_RsUE7ywcUgVVTORtOHaXf6ZNW4lfJNAbND38W4eEfVVD1z8l5cp-9bzubtagpWw/s1600/DSC00762.jpg" height="300" width="450" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Selfie under the trees</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
Many greetings from Albarracin, I will leave you with my usual short funny climbing video... I know it's quite out of fashion and just roughly edited, but climbing was hard and I didn't have time nor the will to make a more professional one. Take it easy!<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="253" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/89779799?portrait=0&color=ff6600" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="450"></iframe></div>
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</div>
Michele Caminatihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04009755354934828297noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4780108708516896497.post-31554468046229870752013-12-29T20:16:00.003+01:002013-12-29T20:18:01.505+01:00Una Giornata al Vivo<div style="text-align: justify;">
Una umida e bruttina giornata di fine anno passata a scalare con gli amici...</div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="253" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/x8n2ng6Fbmk" width="450"></iframe><br /></div>
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</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
anche questa è la scalata. Buone feste a tutti.</div>
<div align="center">
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Michele Caminatihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04009755354934828297noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4780108708516896497.post-53897870463866948852013-12-17T11:57:00.001+01:002013-12-17T12:00:20.218+01:00Back to Ticino<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8NU_rK_J4tC8qnqPOOf_4wXSMzETZHiBAwx5oMclN6CAB6P335kjX4Prr4eQbVPE0aFh7ax0Sd9baxo0xQ4jzgXlVYbhEQAvEXDxCDSbC47I3c6Uv7B3EEFYAyhAOsk3cQvp-TZklI2w/s1600/chiesa-precipizio-phot.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="299" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8NU_rK_J4tC8qnqPOOf_4wXSMzETZHiBAwx5oMclN6CAB6P335kjX4Prr4eQbVPE0aFh7ax0Sd9baxo0xQ4jzgXlVYbhEQAvEXDxCDSbC47I3c6Uv7B3EEFYAyhAOsk3cQvp-TZklI2w/s600/chiesa-precipizio-phot.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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Winter has come back again! After a warm summer mainly spent sport and trad climbing, as soon as temperatures dropped it was time to get back on bouldering...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjceJ1ZK7v6Ow6FTEaP0_ZvWVHQzNBzaYkxHV5m91-k1E68T7e4YW1EISey0ooe1HuSN_LzlC3LJwTqoZX1jaL4fPNTorHnFqhE2Vz6zbhMkKcR91jJeIH647JCTeANX0qcfZpqd9ysOQo/s1600/DSC03549.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="293" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjceJ1ZK7v6Ow6FTEaP0_ZvWVHQzNBzaYkxHV5m91-k1E68T7e4YW1EISey0ooe1HuSN_LzlC3LJwTqoZX1jaL4fPNTorHnFqhE2Vz6zbhMkKcR91jJeIH647JCTeANX0qcfZpqd9ysOQo/s600/DSC03549.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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I still have many projects to try down in Tuscany, but after all the sport and trad climbing I felt quite weak and wanted to test myself and get back in a good shape first, so I went to Chironico were there were still lots of new problems for me to try. (Being quite tired to mess around the Dreamtime boulder in Cresciano)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaPIlkcVC3KvZRlCGt4gvYICNceGKGt7js1g21eBnak5HEnjAFOlw4SS97a39y4wb53e-eVQzUIQNA-twPkdEk25fPCZqmf8IUl-h5Ba3hvZrTQerGSIXMeibipV-lFSOTVlNh9Odx2RM/s1600/case-sobrio.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="283" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaPIlkcVC3KvZRlCGt4gvYICNceGKGt7js1g21eBnak5HEnjAFOlw4SS97a39y4wb53e-eVQzUIQNA-twPkdEk25fPCZqmf8IUl-h5Ba3hvZrTQerGSIXMeibipV-lFSOTVlNh9Odx2RM/s600/case-sobrio.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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There was a problem in Chironico I've always wanted to try: "<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtVBL04RoAqA_Au1v3KRg0rvp0KFIIPGvWj11VEu3hIhDPOijbms6rLuFs4T2_H8oGcPqDTsdn5oTAIQzP_niKk-d57uyu48uJBNAKOQls9r_9VnDo5H8RK4kICEfyVMY4OUSUBq1W23k/s1600/DSC03393.jpg" target="_blank">The Crack Line</a>", a nice 8b that requires a couple of strange finger locks... I thought it was time to see if all the crack jamming payed off ;-)
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In fact I was able to feel the finger locks quite good but what I struggled with most was the middle section that took me quite a long time to understand... it all turned out to be a long siege against the problem as usual!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtVBL04RoAqA_Au1v3KRg0rvp0KFIIPGvWj11VEu3hIhDPOijbms6rLuFs4T2_H8oGcPqDTsdn5oTAIQzP_niKk-d57uyu48uJBNAKOQls9r_9VnDo5H8RK4kICEfyVMY4OUSUBq1W23k/s1600/DSC03393.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtVBL04RoAqA_Au1v3KRg0rvp0KFIIPGvWj11VEu3hIhDPOijbms6rLuFs4T2_H8oGcPqDTsdn5oTAIQzP_niKk-d57uyu48uJBNAKOQls9r_9VnDo5H8RK4kICEfyVMY4OUSUBq1W23k/s600/DSC03393.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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Apart from the Crack Line I climbed a few other problems around, the most beautiful of them being: "<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjceJ1ZK7v6Ow6FTEaP0_ZvWVHQzNBzaYkxHV5m91-k1E68T7e4YW1EISey0ooe1HuSN_LzlC3LJwTqoZX1jaL4fPNTorHnFqhE2Vz6zbhMkKcR91jJeIH647JCTeANX0qcfZpqd9ysOQo/s1600/DSC03549.jpg" target="_blank">Walk the Line</a>" a nice 8a+ added by Giuliano Cameroni in Lavorgo. So here it is: back to bouldering, back to Ticino, back to my small self made videos with single static camera... but this one is special... it has a "vintage" look... enjoy!</div>
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Michele Caminatihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04009755354934828297noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4780108708516896497.post-85110595649350635722013-11-21T12:24:00.002+01:002013-11-21T12:24:27.931+01:00Sardinia Bloc Scouting<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<img border="0" height="191" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnjw_evoLrZ_tVC-dUKMUIa68u2pCmy9abvHONN_GLq_hvLqRKDC56qoF1VyDOBggMj2pX0G__BhsCG0kYA14Bq2Pd9x_iacwRGuAR1988XYMqZLvDz4sYQp3h1VdDFDtSVMmjqyLGXiE/s640/blocscouting.jpg" width="450" /></div>
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It has been a while I'm not writing anything on my blog, and the main reason is that since I've started focusing more on sport and trad climbing I haven't been able take any good pictures of my activity as I used to do with bouldering, hence nothing good to show you... but this time I knew the opportunity was epic as we were all going to explore new areas in the granite paradise of Sardinia and so I made sure to bring my camera along with climbing shoes, crash pad and trad gear.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-NSdZxoY3ChmNWvJ9etCAGFzKpDw7suEJEdy1UnUDascVQGF_ilX4-JO2ERSYQPejod2rLZvBDPV3Xrqz1mYJNSVV02dOZwoZFqeseLso3oYKJrYKrwA5R7vEQuFkkQ0FrFGNU5qiiRM/s1600/DSC02984.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-NSdZxoY3ChmNWvJ9etCAGFzKpDw7suEJEdy1UnUDascVQGF_ilX4-JO2ERSYQPejod2rLZvBDPV3Xrqz1mYJNSVV02dOZwoZFqeseLso3oYKJrYKrwA5R7vEQuFkkQ0FrFGNU5qiiRM/s640/DSC02984.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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La Sportiva Bloc Scouting is born by an idea of Pietro dal Pra, regular visitor of the Island, who wanted to bring a team of La Sportiva athletes to help developing new bouldring areas and find some new lines as well as living a good experience together. We were ten climbers, two videographers, a photographer the laspo guys and we've also been joined by some local climbers... a perfect crew with mixed origins! (the climax being reached when Cody Roth from New Mexico played "morra" with the owner of "Lu Branu" agriturismo after they served us some local grappa ;-))</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV-XVPfiK_qNatSTbRuOMyt3BCd17Mb7JiSzXwiyrG7Dsvyw2whbMQ17yLsdWNIEI850RkemhJUVLnhGuVa_5s0omMa1AjMpVMU_CHwTz4qIv0kqWhtHW0LfGSponrCIlmYdxKq3r8POc/s1600/IMG_1991.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV-XVPfiK_qNatSTbRuOMyt3BCd17Mb7JiSzXwiyrG7Dsvyw2whbMQ17yLsdWNIEI850RkemhJUVLnhGuVa_5s0omMa1AjMpVMU_CHwTz4qIv0kqWhtHW0LfGSponrCIlmYdxKq3r8POc/s640/IMG_1991.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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Everybody has been free to walk around and try the lines he liked the most. As for me I've been mainly attracted by some nice crack lines running through the tallest boulders, that stand out of everything else, and where I had the opportunity to practice my skills, because to be honest crack climbing is a totally different game and I still need to improve a lot.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF6N_H1s6e4PomkoZF8hvzbqv4_Rgr5GqJnofubuUlfaK7L41cxMUhbZE-vtgx6oYASgyZt634gD0Myh3-KXtnJCUMwcD3Tt11FVLF5STJWLsCQzwwqUjBrFhPu7efTdEQryHRJg9IlQY/s1600/IMG_2417.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF6N_H1s6e4PomkoZF8hvzbqv4_Rgr5GqJnofubuUlfaK7L41cxMUhbZE-vtgx6oYASgyZt634gD0Myh3-KXtnJCUMwcD3Tt11FVLF5STJWLsCQzwwqUjBrFhPu7efTdEQryHRJg9IlQY/s640/IMG_2417.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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So everyday we were out climbing: brushing and slapping rough granite slopers or jamming hands into sharp crystals... the rock there is quite aggressive, but everything becomes doable after a good cleaning, and the shapes are so inspiring that it is worth bearing some pain to get to the top.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi58FC55OBMEEc5BTwgC07N5APCLC3rHHP3OVcU4-ejzZg1mWVdaLvR_Q5aYs4FgTqiffqNLeQVnaIacJds2004wqzwoow3kx6E8LEZ4nrCXJznXpGzIfgYlJ0pkGFogO0wBk7QmD57bM/s1600/fessura-pulchiana.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="450" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi58FC55OBMEEc5BTwgC07N5APCLC3rHHP3OVcU4-ejzZg1mWVdaLvR_Q5aYs4FgTqiffqNLeQVnaIacJds2004wqzwoow3kx6E8LEZ4nrCXJznXpGzIfgYlJ0pkGFogO0wBk7QmD57bM/s800/fessura-pulchiana.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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Unfortunately after several days of crack climbing I got my hands totally trashed and I was not even able to finish a couple of the climbs I cared more about. We planned to go back on the very last day after some rest, but unfortunately bad weather came in and we had to give up. Sometimes you have to accept defeat, (well most of the times for me ;-)) but at least we tried hard.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJflncQGH8xKyNX-qFrsEdqWpH9Z3jpUbxEZfrTE2nbN9cFDBkZ02tE-wDIoDS3WO2ad26OjzhNxZlsmxKJktkXvdly3gFPW64htypXi5O0R5pVdzEl5SBEB4vvbQNIcu7oA3w9416QoU/s1600/IMG_2449.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJflncQGH8xKyNX-qFrsEdqWpH9Z3jpUbxEZfrTE2nbN9cFDBkZ02tE-wDIoDS3WO2ad26OjzhNxZlsmxKJktkXvdly3gFPW64htypXi5O0R5pVdzEl5SBEB4vvbQNIcu7oA3w9416QoU/s640/IMG_2449.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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Together we opened more than a hundred new boulder problems into three main areas, four or five short crack climbs, and even a three pitches trad route on mount "Pulchianotto" by James and Caroline. There will be a small topo coming out soon so everybody will be able to get there, revive our experience and open new problems as well... there's still loads to do!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg20Iqn49ky5B376gvA3GXjauFSMwdg2J5YRPiTtRTmoQlxPmaOPYAE6sHNwIPJ-sFuP3h84TudLxvt956O6zlJBo1dnmAN0mLHLni_F3IlcYOKThvziQrqwQwGFrAoLBg4q_rKM3EjGzU/s1600/DSC03109.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg20Iqn49ky5B376gvA3GXjauFSMwdg2J5YRPiTtRTmoQlxPmaOPYAE6sHNwIPJ-sFuP3h84TudLxvt956O6zlJBo1dnmAN0mLHLni_F3IlcYOKThvziQrqwQwGFrAoLBg4q_rKM3EjGzU/s640/DSC03109.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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I really have to thank Pietro for all the efforts he put into this project and La Sportiva for making it happen. Everything we did has been filmed by Richard Felderer and Pietro Porro, and there will be a calendar soon by Klaus Dell'Orto, so stay tuned on La Sportiva website to follow the official reports. As for me I always had my camera in the bag and tried to make my small personal video report: there's no climbing action but at least I hope you will get the scenery!</div>
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One last thing: I want to express my sadness and support for all the people who live in those places that have been hit by an hurricane just the day after we left. Hope everything will get back to normal soon.</div>
Michele Caminatihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04009755354934828297noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4780108708516896497.post-70219146123571020032013-06-07T13:01:00.000+02:002013-06-07T13:04:44.857+02:00Cadarese Cracks !<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE_updaBZafnyFga0YQKZhK6xLYhjvaoTFVC5Nc2Oi9cKDnzf8kH3aOl7NZj0HEIjkAyH1udDeAb-0WPg0BYSLNOI2_f84Lj7G2beZ32x_RoKuK3TM1IBrDhWUxE5Zh0XxDlJ93sMSV44/s1600/prato-case.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE_updaBZafnyFga0YQKZhK6xLYhjvaoTFVC5Nc2Oi9cKDnzf8kH3aOl7NZj0HEIjkAyH1udDeAb-0WPg0BYSLNOI2_f84Lj7G2beZ32x_RoKuK3TM1IBrDhWUxE5Zh0XxDlJ93sMSV44/s600/prato-case.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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Last weekend I had the opportunity to visit for the first time the famous trad climbing crag of "Cadarese" in Ossola Valley. I left with my friend Daniele from Parma and we got really lucky to find great weather conditions with some cold northern wind... it was actually too cold at times!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ31ounxW6PrMsyE-Knud2t7DjGld6UZDPwM2vGZ9m9zIkwOH8nTJYGGxM2ZWNFXrzi06mfrNkZlol7xGtD_inCp17w-ZyhkH384upVc_JSv2xUPyfqLRCRHxn7gkwJlQ0AIRfgYiaKl4/s1600/turkey_crack-dani-wide.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ31ounxW6PrMsyE-Knud2t7DjGld6UZDPwM2vGZ9m9zIkwOH8nTJYGGxM2ZWNFXrzi06mfrNkZlol7xGtD_inCp17w-ZyhkH384upVc_JSv2xUPyfqLRCRHxn7gkwJlQ0AIRfgYiaKl4/s600/turkey_crack-dani-wide.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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It was my first time in a totally trad climbing crag with loads of cracks and no bolts around, so different from what I've been doing in the Peak District! Here routes tend to be very long and there's no way to walk at the top and throw down a rope for inspection... ;-)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjwGQdzjNEvmNdxqzLa6wvELHWPFb5AEc6q4XDGZiv6_os0X6s-YU4ShY6X50LlkIols3FY9ZWBftp_-TsZkO33aiOq-J9xnP7C-CdMN0-Oibx50plWi9v-GXFqx34rX_Tn9xXvTMDMNs/s1600/turkey_crack-patrik-close.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjwGQdzjNEvmNdxqzLa6wvELHWPFb5AEc6q4XDGZiv6_os0X6s-YU4ShY6X50LlkIols3FY9ZWBftp_-TsZkO33aiOq-J9xnP7C-CdMN0-Oibx50plWi9v-GXFqx34rX_Tn9xXvTMDMNs/s600/turkey_crack-patrik-close.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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In addition of doing some nice easier routes I also managed to try some of the hardest stuff the crag has to offer like "<b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVr5WSy_OPw5-OhZ4QczBtbGePu-Fc5FnIx5M9SIr23f4QWi0cyzwPyXEOdcfEwqmFC5ml3ErnClkJx92aNFRtxAYMQm2RU74lmmjE0yBws2NAg6k2FRF6EbfReVbpQNwYQND2DQ6lX8s/s1600/the_doors-linea.jpg" target="_blank">The Doors</a></b>", "<b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ31ounxW6PrMsyE-Knud2t7DjGld6UZDPwM2vGZ9m9zIkwOH8nTJYGGxM2ZWNFXrzi06mfrNkZlol7xGtD_inCp17w-ZyhkH384upVc_JSv2xUPyfqLRCRHxn7gkwJlQ0AIRfgYiaKl4/s1600/turkey_crack-dani-wide.jpg" target="_blank">Turkey Crack</a></b>", and "<b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdLFf8e0bjszjfc4np5y8Taah4IBqDMILDSg_sAhtfY0d7kQHpX_bMwClxFtoxPd51m6AO06UAwD6NgIPmxbUB58MYQOfwbSuUN5REHZv21BKDI-rGvrhcXOJ13k0hnv_U-nJPYEaqZX8/s1600/bookcacke.jpg" target="_blank">Book Cake</a></b>". Each of these routes is very different from the others and requires totally different skills... my crack technique is still very poor and it's very stimulating to find something where you can improve so much.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdLFf8e0bjszjfc4np5y8Taah4IBqDMILDSg_sAhtfY0d7kQHpX_bMwClxFtoxPd51m6AO06UAwD6NgIPmxbUB58MYQOfwbSuUN5REHZv21BKDI-rGvrhcXOJ13k0hnv_U-nJPYEaqZX8/s1600/bookcacke.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 10px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="330" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdLFf8e0bjszjfc4np5y8Taah4IBqDMILDSg_sAhtfY0d7kQHpX_bMwClxFtoxPd51m6AO06UAwD6NgIPmxbUB58MYQOfwbSuUN5REHZv21BKDI-rGvrhcXOJ13k0hnv_U-nJPYEaqZX8/s600/bookcacke.jpg" width="220" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVr5WSy_OPw5-OhZ4QczBtbGePu-Fc5FnIx5M9SIr23f4QWi0cyzwPyXEOdcfEwqmFC5ml3ErnClkJx92aNFRtxAYMQm2RU74lmmjE0yBws2NAg6k2FRF6EbfReVbpQNwYQND2DQ6lX8s/s1600/the_doors-linea.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="330" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVr5WSy_OPw5-OhZ4QczBtbGePu-Fc5FnIx5M9SIr23f4QWi0cyzwPyXEOdcfEwqmFC5ml3ErnClkJx92aNFRtxAYMQm2RU74lmmjE0yBws2NAg6k2FRF6EbfReVbpQNwYQND2DQ6lX8s/s600/the_doors-linea.jpg" width="220" /></a></div>
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Anyway the most familiar I've felt is on "The Doors" which is just too long for me at the moment (35 meters!!) and I do get really pumped placing gear all the way up... let's see what I will be able to do next autumn when I will go back!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8juA9WDdmZfob0Px896F4502A3l1e8U_V0x7MbZ6RmfAwJgR_J8fm2Qs-gfGRR501bxlMjsEflU3izxJvg4nclQMdG3Kwomhye6ZBLzMtzgon4GiEojn9qPLrtRUwkkumNPgyyWihEV8/s1600/io-ferita.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8juA9WDdmZfob0Px896F4502A3l1e8U_V0x7MbZ6RmfAwJgR_J8fm2Qs-gfGRR501bxlMjsEflU3izxJvg4nclQMdG3Kwomhye6ZBLzMtzgon4GiEojn9qPLrtRUwkkumNPgyyWihEV8/s600/io-ferita.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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For now just enjoy some random pictures of there three days of learning and self body destruction.</div>
Michele Caminatihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04009755354934828297noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4780108708516896497.post-25629593468230610642013-05-14T11:21:00.003+02:002013-05-14T23:17:08.937+02:00Oltre il Confine<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjltGiLWYHoDrCuW8-1JlY9bhAMT8OtkYoJBV5WaOsIGMMJswInjfUDrQnQqqWRoacmVZQ_rQ4QHx7JhKM8evEOynNy2h8h5pTNC8Hogf78fUQ_rg3F0JRMVKUdJNWJepAOwQ6MWdtubWI/s1600/oltre_il_confine-wide.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="291" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjltGiLWYHoDrCuW8-1JlY9bhAMT8OtkYoJBV5WaOsIGMMJswInjfUDrQnQqqWRoacmVZQ_rQ4QHx7JhKM8evEOynNy2h8h5pTNC8Hogf78fUQ_rg3F0JRMVKUdJNWJepAOwQ6MWdtubWI/s600/oltre_il_confine-wide.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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Last two weeks have been pretty busy with climbing in Monte Amiata, Val di Mello and Orco Valley. On the 30th of April I've started working on this incredible route my friend Bengio opened last autumn. It is a very obvious line that follows the mouth of this cave, and has a couple of hard boulder sections with a little rest in between.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY7yeK3SliZMCkuiWXkPYxzzCQGGme_zYQkYtNoXLnTxjCQWmmQRIBuoKwGpeEqxDIbdX159d7_yzbyiBrBU8VT2MJ4m72yt785fzCixV1ESwQQ6waisW5AtvgWZHHZQx-IzlWL1fcJMM/s1600/IMG_5265.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="675" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY7yeK3SliZMCkuiWXkPYxzzCQGGme_zYQkYtNoXLnTxjCQWmmQRIBuoKwGpeEqxDIbdX159d7_yzbyiBrBU8VT2MJ4m72yt785fzCixV1ESwQQ6waisW5AtvgWZHHZQx-IzlWL1fcJMM/s800/IMG_5265.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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I had to try the moves for a couple of days before solving the crux, but then I left for Val di Mello, where I did not want to miss the 10th anniversary of <b><a href="http://www.melloblocco.it/" target="_blank">Melloblocco</a></b>. There I could meet plenty of friends and finish to trash my skin climbing some of the great new problems prepared for the event. Just a few days rest and I went for a short trip to Orco Valley to make some multi-pitch practice on the route "Cannabis" I had previously left unfinished last October... </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJaFVjpn3Paz9sjwk2aEV1UKWJp1q6JKa2pgyswKhthCQzjLEl3CdW_S7gCO0FbDM7xjOdQ4esgjWLl4FPFGX72XnG6V08i9NAl1bUhtxIfDP-OvoOW9ZjtCAwiaTTjPgKeLkfGL-Otgg/s1600/IMG_5281.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="675" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJaFVjpn3Paz9sjwk2aEV1UKWJp1q6JKa2pgyswKhthCQzjLEl3CdW_S7gCO0FbDM7xjOdQ4esgjWLl4FPFGX72XnG6V08i9NAl1bUhtxIfDP-OvoOW9ZjtCAwiaTTjPgKeLkfGL-Otgg/s800/IMG_5281.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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That was good stamina training: after just a short bouldering session at the wall and straight back to Amiata for some unfinished business! Last weekend have been just great: good weather, top friction and lots of friends who to show this nice quiet place. Saturday the 11th after four days of tries I made the first repetitions of "<b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjucnA8IX8s3KeUWcgmqu83l5ZTQ70rCKe_7YlN1eU8FynBfL7eMN5IHu6SflO2cfhhAX94m3Y8ZgTiTODw7kJQafvuH1bVq2ossm8jL2bDJaMh55rNDg2a8pxGSQGypRJtHZxm6pIoCH4/s1600/oltreilconfine.jpg" target="_blank">Oltre il Confine</a></b>" my first <b>8b+/8c</b> route. I don't really know about the grade, as I don't have much experience, but it's definitely something special and a good step forward in my sport climbing skills.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjucnA8IX8s3KeUWcgmqu83l5ZTQ70rCKe_7YlN1eU8FynBfL7eMN5IHu6SflO2cfhhAX94m3Y8ZgTiTODw7kJQafvuH1bVq2ossm8jL2bDJaMh55rNDg2a8pxGSQGypRJtHZxm6pIoCH4/s1600/oltreilconfine.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="302" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjucnA8IX8s3KeUWcgmqu83l5ZTQ70rCKe_7YlN1eU8FynBfL7eMN5IHu6SflO2cfhhAX94m3Y8ZgTiTODw7kJQafvuH1bVq2ossm8jL2bDJaMh55rNDg2a8pxGSQGypRJtHZxm6pIoCH4/s600/oltreilconfine.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
Michele Caminatihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04009755354934828297noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4780108708516896497.post-33341034639647844982013-04-26T23:41:00.002+02:002013-04-27T23:48:30.353+02:00Peak District 2013<div style="text-align: justify;">
Since I came back from the Peak District on April the 11th I've been pretty busy, but now it's definitely time to sum up my experience as many interesting things happened during last two months. I left from Parma with my dear Skoda Roomster packed with gear on February 11th... destination Brussels, where I attended a two day advanced video workshop with Philip Bloom, organised by my friend Haroun Souirji.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXN8bViXEwiMhOrTxOf_SHlcv7DHo8ux1iagjzr9uOboabsmH6KBKzgdXJ9-dNw6nZsvvwZ9dJBiFngIftFwhUDJa9cTAhH2YPGZT2JJd1UIRcF-yzL8ScHzCQFGHiBptu7oib8B8lY8U/s1600/stanage-top-neve.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" height="242" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXN8bViXEwiMhOrTxOf_SHlcv7DHo8ux1iagjzr9uOboabsmH6KBKzgdXJ9-dNw6nZsvvwZ9dJBiFngIftFwhUDJa9cTAhH2YPGZT2JJd1UIRcF-yzL8ScHzCQFGHiBptu7oib8B8lY8U/s600/stanage-top-neve.jpg" title="" width="450" /></a></div>
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It has been quite useful and fun, as we had the opportunity to shoot and edit a little 30 seconds short, and it really helped me realize what I need to learn and what I'm already capable of. You can find a collection of shorts that were shot on the occasion <a href="https://vimeo.com/groups/brussels2013"><b><u>here</u></b></a>, there's some pretty good stuff for a couple of hours filming inside a hotel and a short editing session at night!
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw8CTtyjyWzVjdv45jxLMOckVxaQbipkIlWs1OCQKdLFhfLLXXQNmZrpmvyc-P6tBiQFbpQ-D2FAhX8aay6wx2Mb4F4zdghl5KM5bzgp0en2Dq6kulkozlzRWAGrY2JgmwiCUljj2SZ4I/s1600/low_rider-hike-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="259" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw8CTtyjyWzVjdv45jxLMOckVxaQbipkIlWs1OCQKdLFhfLLXXQNmZrpmvyc-P6tBiQFbpQ-D2FAhX8aay6wx2Mb4F4zdghl5KM5bzgp0en2Dq6kulkozlzRWAGrY2JgmwiCUljj2SZ4I/s600/low_rider-hike-3.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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After Brussels I went straight to Sheffield. I could not wait to see the Peak District again, and when I finally entered in town driving down Chesterfield road, I felt like coming back home. A really nice feeling, which I used to have only when arriving in Fontainebleau... it's nice to have a second "<i>home away from home</i>" now.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLazHbVRclaH6V2Uny9bafwkeyDqzrkdbPYEBXBsqec9MT1GDL2mNMiI-9BQU0fN-4PTfIyjmTJzNDH7RkPeundpF8dy_e99omnIBzunZQEJG37fv3k-z74Utcal8pWD6NXEO8lRxOSQ4/s1600/chip_shop_brawl-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLazHbVRclaH6V2Uny9bafwkeyDqzrkdbPYEBXBsqec9MT1GDL2mNMiI-9BQU0fN-4PTfIyjmTJzNDH7RkPeundpF8dy_e99omnIBzunZQEJG37fv3k-z74Utcal8pWD6NXEO8lRxOSQ4/s600/chip_shop_brawl-1.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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The day after my arrival the Peak was still lightly covered by snow, but a few days of good weather soon came along and I had the opportunity to get back into gritstone doing some classics like "<b>Low Rider</b>" 7c+, "<b>Great White</b>" 7c+ (which I added of a nice and scary top out), "<b>Silk</b>" E6 6c and "<b>White Wand</b>" E5 6a.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2pIVkmkf_93jqDO9yga0w-pIJcDhajCnilNJU_vRS2Z6YpbshLD3_P93eznRpNffxRn-V2sSBIyJnPdL7cFWCYwP69xPvIUGfIUKi9vS0O_ei21Zba7kyqFkLPJvkkhABgmFCtA3WOKg/s1600/voyager.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2pIVkmkf_93jqDO9yga0w-pIJcDhajCnilNJU_vRS2Z6YpbshLD3_P93eznRpNffxRn-V2sSBIyJnPdL7cFWCYwP69xPvIUGfIUKi9vS0O_ei21Zba7kyqFkLPJvkkhABgmFCtA3WOKg/s600/voyager.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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Unfortunately good weather didn't last long, and it soon turned back into clouds and rain. Not even good to take pictures I just sticked to training trying to prepare at best for my main goal: <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2pIVkmkf_93jqDO9yga0w-pIJcDhajCnilNJU_vRS2Z6YpbshLD3_P93eznRpNffxRn-V2sSBIyJnPdL7cFWCYwP69xPvIUGfIUKi9vS0O_ei21Zba7kyqFkLPJvkkhABgmFCtA3WOKg/s1600/voyager.jpg" target="_blank">Voyager</a> sitstart, which I wanted to send before warm weather kicked in, and leave some time for more trad climbing.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaJ4j9mnO8UizVUxPkTIQ85cX89A-7uNkH4Nr6UJmiG875nsVR7TPjKEiHGXnF_Rfq6TWV_BvsZcM3TwCVHfd6RlSBZA9z1KyulW0llJPkH_ocXMAXaG_VfU9mgvmw7IruuXTf3LsuiMU/s1600/burbage_millstone.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaJ4j9mnO8UizVUxPkTIQ85cX89A-7uNkH4Nr6UJmiG875nsVR7TPjKEiHGXnF_Rfq6TWV_BvsZcM3TwCVHfd6RlSBZA9z1KyulW0llJPkH_ocXMAXaG_VfU9mgvmw7IruuXTf3LsuiMU/s600/burbage_millstone.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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As days passed I had some mixed weather, it was generally cold but quite humid and still. I tried several times Voyager but I constantly kept falling on the release from a heel hook, quite close to the end, but there was no sign of improvement with such conditions. I was confident anyway, almost certain to get some dry windy days at some point... and in fact I did, but not under Voyager, as I will explain later on.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHHeDRNe7Th4j5K48gnvU-91ysctEMXRGM6L_1JO9K4k27FemItxs-KoGZM1-qzCuDLAyrkZQmjYc66OqKpXXR7iprOmkH0hgP7WdWrPyhyphenhyphendcleb51jE9KJjuaM33PkXuETsoFs_6qz64/s1600/walk_on_by-wide.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHHeDRNe7Th4j5K48gnvU-91ysctEMXRGM6L_1JO9K4k27FemItxs-KoGZM1-qzCuDLAyrkZQmjYc66OqKpXXR7iprOmkH0hgP7WdWrPyhyphenhyphendcleb51jE9KJjuaM33PkXuETsoFs_6qz64/s600/walk_on_by-wide.jpg" title="Walk On By 7c+" width="450" /></a></div>
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At the same time I had some fun trying the technical slab of "<b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHHeDRNe7Th4j5K48gnvU-91ysctEMXRGM6L_1JO9K4k27FemItxs-KoGZM1-qzCuDLAyrkZQmjYc66OqKpXXR7iprOmkH0hgP7WdWrPyhyphenhyphendcleb51jE9KJjuaM33PkXuETsoFs_6qz64/s1600/walk_on_by-wide.jpg" target="_blank">Walk on By</a></b>" 7c+, which required a few visits, and taking part as usual at the <b><a href="http://www.climbingworks.com/the-beta/blog/2013/03/06/" target="_blank">CWIF</a></b> competition, proudly member of the Beastmaker team together with Ned, Will and Mina. I did surprisingly good in the qualifiers, coming second overall, probably too good, as the next day I did a complete disaster in the semis (as usual) and had to get out on grit straight away to get off some steam (usual again). In the evening I came back to watch the finals and then everybody went out for a curry... happy ending. (did I say usual? :-) )</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigx_ehaFvPFH3pCmzuniePqTY1DwzUFqSSyjmDFu4xgMq2FQks7YrtmoP2fPw7VSYeqNQ4o7wn3SWGbxVGBXZ6KDYL8ypMxqcPPelrs5naGiAo8bqsR2DZgcJ9cfAT3pqeTSDcfcjWt0w/s1600/superbloc-mik-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigx_ehaFvPFH3pCmzuniePqTY1DwzUFqSSyjmDFu4xgMq2FQks7YrtmoP2fPw7VSYeqNQ4o7wn3SWGbxVGBXZ6KDYL8ypMxqcPPelrs5naGiAo8bqsR2DZgcJ9cfAT3pqeTSDcfcjWt0w/s600/superbloc-mik-2.jpg" title="Superbloc 8a+" width="450" /></a></div>
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One day I also got some luck: quite tired after a long session on Voyager the former day I went out with </div>
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friends to try <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigx_ehaFvPFH3pCmzuniePqTY1DwzUFqSSyjmDFu4xgMq2FQks7YrtmoP2fPw7VSYeqNQ4o7wn3SWGbxVGBXZ6KDYL8ypMxqcPPelrs5naGiAo8bqsR2DZgcJ9cfAT3pqeTSDcfcjWt0w/s1600/superbloc-mik-2.jpg" style="font-weight: bold;" target="_blank">Superbloc</a> 8a+, an amazing boulder problem that looks like one in Fontainebleau, but definitely climbs like a gritstone classic, needing cold weather and good skin to drag a few poor tiny pockets using the worst feet imaginable.</div>
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The day was perfect: cold, windy and with occasional clouds masking the sun. I could not ask for better, and after some fight with it I found myself at the top of the problem. I was quite surprised as I've been trying that since my first visit three years ago and was not even feeling close. Gritstone is like that, one day you can't move and the next one you stick to everything. After Superbloc only one boulder problem remained on the list... Voyager sit! But weather showed up with an unexpected gift... <b>SNOW</b>!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaykCmdd2GQEa0-hoB2DALQuXvPPQzcv8awEHV1n5eKer2Pm4noOa1uQtMmow0sOuh5ZMRBfMrhJ-yIW29pefyhhb9LVRNibdFUDcBM1-jIzciuLJiB9yTKWILYCSPztx_gGhvqJm7bFE/s1600/curbar_snow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaykCmdd2GQEa0-hoB2DALQuXvPPQzcv8awEHV1n5eKer2Pm4noOa1uQtMmow0sOuh5ZMRBfMrhJ-yIW29pefyhhb9LVRNibdFUDcBM1-jIzciuLJiB9yTKWILYCSPztx_gGhvqJm7bFE/s600/curbar_snow.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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Right at the time my father and a couple of friends from Parma came to visit, we got stuck for a couple of days under a heavy snow storm accompanied by strong winds... nothing much I could show them apart from some circuits at the Climbing Works and a tour of the nicest pubs in town where we could taste a complex variety of real ales...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIZvx1GnWOKIWpuSjH3rhnkpPtX3eVWpqGJZVMwCDlAWnBmzE6gcE5BDnHH8uArs63rJ35lWD7aNyjfa7rzA7dqHWeiC-Hs_S2cegvxnT6hQUu5qvgd9fdHwQesYSjKqQHVveW_kKBNyA/s1600/rutland_arms_pub.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="314" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIZvx1GnWOKIWpuSjH3rhnkpPtX3eVWpqGJZVMwCDlAWnBmzE6gcE5BDnHH8uArs63rJ35lWD7aNyjfa7rzA7dqHWeiC-Hs_S2cegvxnT6hQUu5qvgd9fdHwQesYSjKqQHVveW_kKBNyA/s600/rutland_arms_pub.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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After the storm passed it was impressive to see how much snow there was up there... the wind moved and packed huge drifts of snow under the crags and on the roads, making it impossible to drive or reach what was left of the crags... it was time to buy some gaiters and prepare for some long hikes in the snow. The goal was to go there clean the rocks and build some nice and flat snow landings, waiting for some highball action once the crags would have dried out.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM9b51Zyb1hT42N8MC-XB6Xpm2VjIObhkmSVflRFaDss8TQqiSvrreV9mhbzxVGHDN3z0sew_rNFpT1EcYW0LgXevZumOh1iR4y-BqltWs1yMwhtKMc-qSunt50lqQB-Tv30NVBpJ9btE/s1600/IMG_4958.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM9b51Zyb1hT42N8MC-XB6Xpm2VjIObhkmSVflRFaDss8TQqiSvrreV9mhbzxVGHDN3z0sew_rNFpT1EcYW0LgXevZumOh1iR4y-BqltWs1yMwhtKMc-qSunt50lqQB-Tv30NVBpJ9btE/s600/IMG_4958.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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Weather gave us a couple of weeks of dry sunshine, staying quite cold and windy, and making the snow quite compact. Unfortunately winds kept blowing from east all of the time, making it really sheltered and even warm at Burbage north under Voyager, while on the other side, at Burbage west conditions were just perfect... very frustrating.</div>
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Anyway, finally good weather had come back, and even if condition were not good enough for Voyager, there were plenty of things I could climb, and the nice snow platforms under the routes were certainly an occasion not to be missed. Going out almost every day, fighting at times with cold wind and at times with boiling sunshine I satisfied my need of rock, and I made the most out of this awaited period of nice weather.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXcxLwUnvEqTWLGmTN067udMVrpJQLjUn_6wn_j5SNyLsKOlw9caLMGSfLrNWCDKnq5flBDRLobqzn2l9zdXRIA6vbWJ61_xhg0n3HPE0Bpip6Zg0tJK0yFe5HUQi1Yuc_yLRgk5TWVv8/s1600/gardoms-bridge.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXcxLwUnvEqTWLGmTN067udMVrpJQLjUn_6wn_j5SNyLsKOlw9caLMGSfLrNWCDKnq5flBDRLobqzn2l9zdXRIA6vbWJ61_xhg0n3HPE0Bpip6Zg0tJK0yFe5HUQi1Yuc_yLRgk5TWVv8/s600/gardoms-bridge.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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Among the things I wanted to try most were a couple of aretes at Burbage south: <b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhaa8pejioYznwQ61LFbPfsjs-6oSLx-jdmTdx6_6pBDk3mpvu-JhZrNNCxgguAWFskyigNce6kXkQ610d-bi-AJy43I9kpuF2qX_TAzVG6qvJP_Wkz4d_fSloxYRJDBczqcC4eTulUWo/s1600/messiah-4.jpg" target="_blank">Messiah</a></b> E7 6c and <b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBq4lnPo_Kn1umaxfAJdnMUAD6IpLHc6Rj1Z1839Kh4S6dFRiuApk_wCndteWIgt2oPzmEB2PPqQANQbxAqW7Ux7FMnhnAh4ZrcfxTUjggSbF0jT3ZJgXhmKiaKrzA66xY1JDZNl30SK4/s1600/simbas-jake.jpg" target="_blank">Simba's Pride</a></b> E8 6b. The first one is a proper route with a hard 7b/7c boulder move at mid height, while the second one is a scary and tall boulder problem with a deadly jump right at the top... Messiah was really fun: as I was getting too cold placing gear in the first break before the crux, I preferred to carry on to the good one just above it when I did the route, but I still got really cold placing gear and finishing it up... nightmare!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBq4lnPo_Kn1umaxfAJdnMUAD6IpLHc6Rj1Z1839Kh4S6dFRiuApk_wCndteWIgt2oPzmEB2PPqQANQbxAqW7Ux7FMnhnAh4ZrcfxTUjggSbF0jT3ZJgXhmKiaKrzA66xY1JDZNl30SK4/s1600/simbas-jake.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBq4lnPo_Kn1umaxfAJdnMUAD6IpLHc6Rj1Z1839Kh4S6dFRiuApk_wCndteWIgt2oPzmEB2PPqQANQbxAqW7Ux7FMnhnAh4ZrcfxTUjggSbF0jT3ZJgXhmKiaKrzA66xY1JDZNl30SK4/s600/simbas-jake.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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Simba's Pride was even scarier: I wanted to try it "ground up" without a top rope inspection, but when I got to the final jump and had to engage I was simply too scared and I could do nothing else than trying to jump down as controlled as I could. Even with some snow on the ground the fall was really nasty and after the second one my sore knees forced me to stop. Back on my decision, I tried the jump with a rope, but that felt not as easy as I thought it would feel... (yes, I definitely suck at jumping!). I have to thank my friend Jake who took courage and finally climbed the line: his effort gave me back motivation and I also went for it instead of giving up. What a day!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguUdG4_dS1fMaZLnQMv665o2UskcEqAX06RaapFvhjg_fcOsH56a_c2t4uk-8ExXeL4v8G19DDhy1wgO0ja0hroO7dUgZJBjMbcJ8wXqfiInn4RIC07VcOeL7uTUFAAPof8QgRoql6SOo/s1600/samson-mik-5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguUdG4_dS1fMaZLnQMv665o2UskcEqAX06RaapFvhjg_fcOsH56a_c2t4uk-8ExXeL4v8G19DDhy1wgO0ja0hroO7dUgZJBjMbcJ8wXqfiInn4RIC07VcOeL7uTUFAAPof8QgRoql6SOo/s600/samson-mik-5.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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If I could not finish Voyager and it was too cold for trad climbing there was one thing I absolutely wanted to do: <b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglYqhH4KP4cULBLAij_0NWn-X-nD-FULhIev_ORIMnSYXSPGwrrDOxs88ki0A1yUVbCCBox5apaRdORwufP_FirPwwm156QQZaqZ-afE80nyeTJUOGpw1LO1WVIIfk8aP-Qb09Sxpixt0/s1600/samson-mik-9.jpg" target="_blank">Samson</a></b>. I've been dreaming of this route since I've seen Jerry Moffatt top roping it in the video Hard Grit. The line is tall but it's definitely possible to try above pads, and a few people already did, like my friend Ned last year, making me very envious.</div>
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The problem starts with an easy crack, reaches an obvious hole in the middle of the blank wall and crosses to a pocket you use to finish up a line of rounded edges. The climbing is quite powerful on fairly big holds but all you have for your feet is just a bunch of poor pebbles that are quite hard to use. You can climb, take your time to chalk up in the hole, and then carry on for the upper crux. Definitely one of the best things I climbed in my life: a tall hard 8a boulder problem, one that you will never forget of. Thanks James for spotting and supporting me!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0fx_PuwK0tOtqBm1nd6PC9Nq2f0q8vvbldzl5_WRFvDjyDi2pZYpie_MYDqWBKstqVKHBMZDIPP1Syc8nl2OTgorQ5fFID16xKcH92kSGtKPhVzo13WNQaRNdJjMYoitE4XPVlMvAwTE/s1600/burbage-sunset.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0fx_PuwK0tOtqBm1nd6PC9Nq2f0q8vvbldzl5_WRFvDjyDi2pZYpie_MYDqWBKstqVKHBMZDIPP1Syc8nl2OTgorQ5fFID16xKcH92kSGtKPhVzo13WNQaRNdJjMYoitE4XPVlMvAwTE/s600/burbage-sunset.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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During last few days temperature started to warm up and you could definitely feel spring was coming. I briefly tried Voyager again without much hope of success (never give up), but at least I could move to try a few routes on a nearby wall, the one where "<b>The Promise</b>" is, before the snow platform would completely melt.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd4IaeeYIDOKOLVZMOdcgotg7ug77a3shu27UNn6vjNMNEcftc77yI3pK7xYR0SM40e0jE_tJlHonx5XlAAzJo3TVj6_EeDyZsQWEmggbO-YULnVe72Ic6rCvWDu86xbU9ddmABgTU7rs/s1600/superstition-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd4IaeeYIDOKOLVZMOdcgotg7ug77a3shu27UNn6vjNMNEcftc77yI3pK7xYR0SM40e0jE_tJlHonx5XlAAzJo3TVj6_EeDyZsQWEmggbO-YULnVe72Ic6rCvWDu86xbU9ddmABgTU7rs/s600/superstition-3.jpg" title="Superstition E8 7a" width="450" /></a></div>
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So one day together with Ned (like on The Promise last year) we did the third and fourth ascent of Miles Gibson's route "<b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd4IaeeYIDOKOLVZMOdcgotg7ug77a3shu27UNn6vjNMNEcftc77yI3pK7xYR0SM40e0jE_tJlHonx5XlAAzJo3TVj6_EeDyZsQWEmggbO-YULnVe72Ic6rCvWDu86xbU9ddmABgTU7rs/s1600/superstition-3.jpg" target="_blank">Superstition</a></b>" E8 7a?. Probably a fingery and pebbley 7c boulder problem above pads (and snow), just slightly harder than the Promise, with a final scary jump for the ledge. Now just one route was left for me on the boulder, and thanks to the snow I managed to climb on my own with three pads "<b>Living in Oxford</b>" E7 6c on my last day... after that a final session at the Works (just in case), and a good pie at the Broadfield with James... next day I would find myself on the ferry back to Italy.</div>Michele Caminatihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04009755354934828297noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4780108708516896497.post-29644790345354733122013-01-21T12:47:00.000+01:002013-01-21T12:47:42.899+01:00New Year in Amiata: boulder and trad !<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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New Year, time to get back to Amiata trying to get some sunshine and finish some unfinished business... potential is surely there, good rock too, if you even find a team of psyched people to work with it's basically done!</div>
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First goal was climbing a hard project in "Vivo D'Orcia" sector named <b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPMhfK_IlWIeyzb3sx_xXmmRNXw-g6Au9n0aw2c7s31GM_lCPhIjr2hFsSdwS5Bnc0RKiJoEsyNQz3a1BLXjL6DNO5tBden2YZT6jA9qN0bsh69MBtC1Lav3gr9j7U59BUoHpeRNEzcNs/s1600/mondo_bastardo-mik-1.jpg" target="_blank">Mondo Bastardo</a></b>. I tried it a few times over last spring and this autumn, I was getting really close but always dropped on the last shoulder move when coming from the start. It's a great line on pockets, it can be quite sharp on your skin, but the reward is enough to make you battle and bleed as hard as you can.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBLQx6vbVka8B-z8paxeazcHesH4u4BGmaZv9LdVJFKCcY7ILgARiXKS1FHJa4m7OCj7RzCY8xvpDwl1z-wMCUm-gqgSoLLMkVj8dkGUckG4ldrZAV-iop_tIuvwRth2m4xlXcAS1V-Uw/s1600/pannello-specchio.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBLQx6vbVka8B-z8paxeazcHesH4u4BGmaZv9LdVJFKCcY7ILgARiXKS1FHJa4m7OCj7RzCY8xvpDwl1z-wMCUm-gqgSoLLMkVj8dkGUckG4ldrZAV-iop_tIuvwRth2m4xlXcAS1V-Uw/s640/pannello-specchio.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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I had to get back a couple of times, and make some good training on our super board at Castel del Piano, before finally sticking the last move on the 4th of January... the grade is proposed 8b, and I think it deserves it all. After that I've soon started working on the next hard one, which is just a hundred meters away. This one could be even harder and will be a good project to get back as soon as the snow goes away!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVhqPbiKHNA3_-5xK76J1TLSVd9PnioRqqGO_9D_Cei52WTGCaxTSOINZS8RCqhKZnQev5Ay7g-TLE_rLFCnIwgYb-9W9Nv5ftJDhyw55u-SQ-e7yUYXTZ2SQYEvh6tX-iq2e8K7FlXoQ/s1600/sassoporta.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVhqPbiKHNA3_-5xK76J1TLSVd9PnioRqqGO_9D_Cei52WTGCaxTSOINZS8RCqhKZnQev5Ay7g-TLE_rLFCnIwgYb-9W9Nv5ftJDhyw55u-SQ-e7yUYXTZ2SQYEvh6tX-iq2e8K7FlXoQ/s640/sassoporta.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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Moving on to a different subject we started opening some new trad lines at Chiesina sector, mainly due to the efforts done by Federico Schlatter who made a heavy gardening job to clean all the rock from vegetation! I have to say hard bouldering and good trad climbing is probably my favorite mix, as it allows you to rest your body after a heavy session and simply enjoy the beauty of climbing with a little bit of mind challenge... I'm really proud we're starting to develop such a place in Italy as well.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgszaEh3x-n1MXcWrwF_Styvd7Ll4Y7V2Drz_kcKiB_vEbjDuMdRqftFENtK7R6lZgxkXsNmd8qVRsZ2fJS78QKFyMp0TvTUtBgSkj5aW-wNo3rt-GwqifJWqfuSqgE91GIq2ndRImJ4Tg/s1600/fede_normale-wide.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 3px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgszaEh3x-n1MXcWrwF_Styvd7Ll4Y7V2Drz_kcKiB_vEbjDuMdRqftFENtK7R6lZgxkXsNmd8qVRsZ2fJS78QKFyMp0TvTUtBgSkj5aW-wNo3rt-GwqifJWqfuSqgE91GIq2ndRImJ4Tg/s320/fede_normale-wide.jpg" width="148" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8VlQXalWuwbkLukQ1pZRCeNwhDmnut6kkw0grKrKCTsM6Yo3QMpWGxuvfmWgsSmDt9iRFisvCLtEhVzYUF0Ul9evvePh68JlyuCKYb5ay3MdbTexoXbS8RTG20haAGKSmYrzEzo5jZ_c/s1600/friend-tommi.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 3px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8VlQXalWuwbkLukQ1pZRCeNwhDmnut6kkw0grKrKCTsM6Yo3QMpWGxuvfmWgsSmDt9iRFisvCLtEhVzYUF0Ul9evvePh68JlyuCKYb5ay3MdbTexoXbS8RTG20haAGKSmYrzEzo5jZ_c/s320/friend-tommi.jpg" width="148" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcJNzn_l7ly2rjRj55-Br3mWK3XPWuJ2gLdCD5Bs0tQmayh8IPOSXmfe5suf1diBgZheTlyb8SvWNvBc16rr5VIZJqC8qQ2sRysVL_JjOwT3XGWG-KD6NF24B_eQ_BozTykV5YdVgT2OI/s1600/nido_cinghiale-wide.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcJNzn_l7ly2rjRj55-Br3mWK3XPWuJ2gLdCD5Bs0tQmayh8IPOSXmfe5suf1diBgZheTlyb8SvWNvBc16rr5VIZJqC8qQ2sRysVL_JjOwT3XGWG-KD6NF24B_eQ_BozTykV5YdVgT2OI/s320/nido_cinghiale-wide.jpg" width="148" /></a></div>
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Among the lines we gave birth to a special mention goes to "<b>Il Nido del Cinghiale</b>" E3 6a (the bore's nest) and "<b>Un Friend per Amico</b>" E6 6c (a friend as a friend). The last one is quite intense and fairly safe on gear, it has a short bouldery section which will deserve at least 7b sport climbing, with proper gear (not too easy to place though) it becomes a very enjoyable route to test your trad skills.</div>
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I'll leave you with this nice video we made of the route, hope it will make you wish to visit Amiata and enjoy this place as we're doing... we'll publish an article on <strong><a href="http://www.pareti.it/" target="_blank">Pareti</a></strong> magazine soon... just in case! Thanks to Federico, Bengio, Tommy and everybody else who shared with us his new year's holiday.</div>
Michele Caminatihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04009755354934828297noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4780108708516896497.post-65511512208959751652012-12-25T21:52:00.001+01:002012-12-25T21:52:46.014+01:00The North Sail<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioockcVAM8bj55HM58fv3IhHfP_j0bbxcsKsp2bimKhUbsMYFeA7NdVZwmh0i9qasEEPM6jPDgewpXDCPfqg3qvQF5bVTUr9xPeVbEgEmjoe2mR-7vKPJp2qt7M-WCownZR-VM0Lj5Wr8/s1600/salamandre-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioockcVAM8bj55HM58fv3IhHfP_j0bbxcsKsp2bimKhUbsMYFeA7NdVZwmh0i9qasEEPM6jPDgewpXDCPfqg3qvQF5bVTUr9xPeVbEgEmjoe2mR-7vKPJp2qt7M-WCownZR-VM0Lj5Wr8/s600/salamandre-2.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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A couple of weeks ago I've been for a few days to Cresciano taking advantage of a period of good weather and I have some interesting news to share. One day while I was walking to get to the Dreamtime boulder I found myself again in front of a tall arete which is just before the Jungle Book sector. I had already looked at it several times wondering if it was possible to climb: it looked quite hard in the middle section where you have to squeeze two sharp aretes, plus it looked way too frightening at the end where you won't like the idea to fall from what seemed a tricky finger crack. So usually I just moved on to try something else but this time I happened to have a short rope with me... let's give it a look!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAiFrKPKPHvd7d31bxCBvCB2w6kIWyZ2y7ivpSRecSz4ZpEbhF2s6m9_jQCT3RsvnFGAOcWT6u7C8QhOepxIqml2NG90UOU67xo9szg4cn9pruMvscE0cHfq0vugh161eMlRWpaHHepKs/s1600/north_sail-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAiFrKPKPHvd7d31bxCBvCB2w6kIWyZ2y7ivpSRecSz4ZpEbhF2s6m9_jQCT3RsvnFGAOcWT6u7C8QhOepxIqml2NG90UOU67xo9szg4cn9pruMvscE0cHfq0vugh161eMlRWpaHHepKs/s600/north_sail-1.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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I abseiled down, cleaned the crack from the moss and tried the upper moves on self belay... ok it's easy here, no excuses! So came down and I started to build a proper landing with rocks at the start which was just above a huge pond of water. Something turned up in my mind, I definitely wanted to climb this line now! I spent some time to figure out the middle moves and the sitstart. There is a quite intense section from a big undercut before establishing in the crack, and it involves a strange toe hook while pinching the arete. From there you may still jump down safely before engaging the final part. The sitstart is not hard on his own but then it's tricky to get the undercut properly when you come from the right arete. It was enough for the day, I finished to stack a few more rocks to make a better landing and went away.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrePSvZXLd4RScgMfJOpE1DYdTQnP17WOoW44uJLoIStii6PD-gFoVBnD9G7W10-DoVykF7aA6mw3Bo3ElRxAhlCijSJdmUv0GkpNr3UXuW3E04HcmvRVP_Ts-_5mPaHQ0LR1tLYnJ_pc/s1600/north_sail-6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrePSvZXLd4RScgMfJOpE1DYdTQnP17WOoW44uJLoIStii6PD-gFoVBnD9G7W10-DoVykF7aA6mw3Bo3ElRxAhlCijSJdmUv0GkpNr3UXuW3E04HcmvRVP_Ts-_5mPaHQ0LR1tLYnJ_pc/s600/north_sail-6.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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The next day I came back focused, I tried once again the top section with the rope and made myself ready for the ascent. I was alone and had three big pads which were enough to cover the hard part, afterwards you don't really want to fall... I had a couple of good goes but both times I felt too scared to continue. Shit I really do need some help and cheering up here! So I had to wait till the next trip, when a few friends helped with spotting and I could finally fulfill the dream of climbing this great new line which is probably among the best in Cresciano. You can watch it in the video I made a few days later with my friend <a href="http://gianlubos.wix.com/couldbeworse#!home/mainPage" target="_blank">Gianluca</a>, it also shows it's right slabby brother (which I found to be called Salamandre)... something between 6c and 7a+ crazy, tall and with a fairly good landing where you can to take some good falls.</div>
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Later on speaking with Cresciano guidebook authors I found Klem Loskot already climbed the line from the big undercut and gave it 8a+ but unfortunately it soon got into oblivion. In my opinion I was thinking to give it 8a/8a+ from the sitstart and 7c+ starting on the second deck with the big undercut. The full line seems better to me anyway so I've decided to keep the name I had already thought calling it "The North Sail". Hope you will discover and fall in love with this great problem as I did. It could be a good one if you are spending your Christmas holidays around Cresciano... by the way... HAPPY CHRISTAMS, HAPPY CLIMBING !</div>
Michele Caminatihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04009755354934828297noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4780108708516896497.post-50298977680504050982012-11-23T23:40:00.002+01:002012-11-23T23:49:27.482+01:00the Swiss Recipes<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyN6fRxRwhdCiChrNW2NEhd-q0vhg0Ek1OzBzUXVb_WlMeXtE9JfxeFa_9Ytgyb0NzlSEDsIhP2szlTtMM19339hHPqUng4btwlxfvlpLWJ7PquIbj9MjGY0drB1S1KqBR9c-8iyqjO38/s1600/boule_james-50mm-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyN6fRxRwhdCiChrNW2NEhd-q0vhg0Ek1OzBzUXVb_WlMeXtE9JfxeFa_9Ytgyb0NzlSEDsIhP2szlTtMM19339hHPqUng4btwlxfvlpLWJ7PquIbj9MjGY0drB1S1KqBR9c-8iyqjO38/s600/boule_james-50mm-1.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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Hi everybody, you probably didn't hear many news recently, cause I've been mainly training indoor (at the <a href="http://www.pareti.it/sport-center/palestra/sala" target="_blank">Pareti Sportcenter</a> in Parma where I've recently started working) to prepare the Italian bouldering championship. Unluckily I've managed to get ill just before the competition and had to climb with the fever all the way to the finals where I could do nothing more than trying to get to the end... it has been fun anyway, just a pity to see all your hard training vanish. No worries, I can always try again next year.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzth41XPVDsRLJAu6X8uwqpvTz18g2iGhVdB3HG1VxtIDDmECe-cQtYxY2mM-oCiL-05Ma7asHqOD8Ax0PIH0UxvZUC7T2Zibrqb36xIoF3ZilBlGhuHSG3aEc9GA77HfUH_317aYAfkg/s1600/il_partner-tim-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 6px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="333" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzth41XPVDsRLJAu6X8uwqpvTz18g2iGhVdB3HG1VxtIDDmECe-cQtYxY2mM-oCiL-05Ma7asHqOD8Ax0PIH0UxvZUC7T2Zibrqb36xIoF3ZilBlGhuHSG3aEc9GA77HfUH_317aYAfkg/s600/il_partner-tim-1.jpg" width="222" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgySYh6WcCSGFactonSXhmU2QrcQhvSmhv_rZox_TTcPyq96DTYe0psALGCipzRgEejHhKkDkVM2Yybd5zsTKk8s5XZl9fT2URVCQdGJPKK7NUJvhKp_21OSYibRq20bMrCFCuqS1eQNOs/s1600/il_partner-leo-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="333" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgySYh6WcCSGFactonSXhmU2QrcQhvSmhv_rZox_TTcPyq96DTYe0psALGCipzRgEejHhKkDkVM2Yybd5zsTKk8s5XZl9fT2URVCQdGJPKK7NUJvhKp_21OSYibRq20bMrCFCuqS1eQNOs/s600/il_partner-leo-1.jpg" width="222" /></a></div>
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Soon after the competition I moved to Switzerland together with several friends from England who came for an holiday dreaming about Cresciano and all the classics that Malc and Jerry were climbing in Stone Love... what better of some granite and sunshine to recover and get back in shape?</div>
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Together with James, Leo, Tim and Anna we had a lot of fun: hard bouldering during the day and good meals at night to feed your body and your mind. At the end of the holiday everybody got some brilliant problems done: including <b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyN6fRxRwhdCiChrNW2NEhd-q0vhg0Ek1OzBzUXVb_WlMeXtE9JfxeFa_9Ytgyb0NzlSEDsIhP2szlTtMM19339hHPqUng4btwlxfvlpLWJ7PquIbj9MjGY0drB1S1KqBR9c-8iyqjO38/s1600/boule_james-50mm-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" target="_blank">La Boule</a></b>, <b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD8JSS29XcjV0E92vV0hz7Rf98PZ-oYBlk1OlvRIU6yCXBJs1URu_8OlwZ3dbo5qaLLkVzk4AiWQEE1SOIpZjhzaRdCpTq81GcEsFbruyCsKof8cXFuo3iDozVJYQqvwSd2YCE9K47qhs/s1600/la_pelle-leo-2-1.jpg" target="_blank">La Pelle</a></b>, <b>Kirk Windstain</b>, <b>Frank's Wild Years</b> and <b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgySYh6WcCSGFactonSXhmU2QrcQhvSmhv_rZox_TTcPyq96DTYe0psALGCipzRgEejHhKkDkVM2Yybd5zsTKk8s5XZl9fT2URVCQdGJPKK7NUJvhKp_21OSYibRq20bMrCFCuqS1eQNOs/s1600/il_partner-leo-1.jpg" target="_blank">Il Partner</a></b>. As for myself I went mainly climbing to Chironico where I still had several problems I missed to check out.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHJudrSlklVtWJmWqxyOMerDAwjUfjrhyphenhyphenBeUpyoWLbup7VJI0IWGFUVbTZLlBEKhKvVD_-VemgUaKY8GjVMtEP2xRGWxOqes7vX3GsCGCbYIL3wnJwwuBmVmRkAqKG494AoHX7e4IWuGM/s1600/conquistador-direct-2-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHJudrSlklVtWJmWqxyOMerDAwjUfjrhyphenhyphenBeUpyoWLbup7VJI0IWGFUVbTZLlBEKhKvVD_-VemgUaKY8GjVMtEP2xRGWxOqes7vX3GsCGCbYIL3wnJwwuBmVmRkAqKG494AoHX7e4IWuGM/s600/conquistador-direct-2-1.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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I did a few classics like <b>Souvenir</b> and <b>Teamwork</b>, and was really pleased to climb <b>Delusion of Grandeur</b>, <b>Einfisch Kleinfisch</b> and <b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHJudrSlklVtWJmWqxyOMerDAwjUfjrhyphenhyphenBeUpyoWLbup7VJI0IWGFUVbTZLlBEKhKvVD_-VemgUaKY8GjVMtEP2xRGWxOqes7vX3GsCGCbYIL3wnJwwuBmVmRkAqKG494AoHX7e4IWuGM/s1600/conquistador-direct-2-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" target="_blank">Conquistador</a></b>, which I also did in it's new direct version (maybe half a grade harder... 8b?). Especially Delusion and Conquistador (both versions) were among the best ones I climbed in Chironico so far, and probably among the best all over Switzerland. I'll leave you with this stupid video that gives a good idea of what our holiday was... anyway <b>Bouldering Recipes</b> is what this kind of short "beta" videos we keep posting on the internet is all about, so why not make it clear and add some proper recipes? ;-)</div>
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Happy climbing, and keep it for fun. Michele.</div>
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Michele Caminatihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04009755354934828297noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4780108708516896497.post-28214251032140836222012-10-26T01:28:00.000+02:002013-01-21T12:17:02.606+01:00Weekend in Amiata<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_wFoAgbcMwIif2QCOn7iqISMd2ls7f8oF0brixLSLKCO5xQyEIIyGyUNwMCNt5-OerLkmdB9rssrR3dxW0_UjenzKVKrjjRpsPF2tHOznp2ZW886Wo60jT0QgpjdHcsjB36Q_I8rJ7xE/s1600/amiata-panorama-tilt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_wFoAgbcMwIif2QCOn7iqISMd2ls7f8oF0brixLSLKCO5xQyEIIyGyUNwMCNt5-OerLkmdB9rssrR3dxW0_UjenzKVKrjjRpsPF2tHOznp2ZW886Wo60jT0QgpjdHcsjB36Q_I8rJ7xE/s600/amiata-panorama-tilt.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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After a couple of weeks of work at the climbing wall I finally took a short break and went back to my little house in Siena keen to start with the winter season in Monte Amiata.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnwF9EJ-KdbUmUZnAeh6g36fLDjrEWL1kOXt7ncrmVAbXwqCuHJ8Qto0QzESSasiP1fQXsvG0hJ2R_7ykxVMb5TPCB0Yi7xDylW54kjArPVRuPQ_e958usBOzSESPFVrHlrLe8sxHKJfY/s1600/alibracciapinne-lato-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 6px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="333" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnwF9EJ-KdbUmUZnAeh6g36fLDjrEWL1kOXt7ncrmVAbXwqCuHJ8Qto0QzESSasiP1fQXsvG0hJ2R_7ykxVMb5TPCB0Yi7xDylW54kjArPVRuPQ_e958usBOzSESPFVrHlrLe8sxHKJfY/s600/alibracciapinne-lato-1.jpg" width="222" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrjEtxJMposaYWt4xrdPq3ogmUhyPtVwIxuc66kWiZHbFd0vIP4mWsNIkKKWMKhCMyZ0WY0aK_S2J9C0kA3RgQjtXdAb565-z2wGgP2Km0FplH-y4o1txgytbD3Kew6RlvtBDlU9diHAs/s1600/alibracciapinne-intero-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="333" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrjEtxJMposaYWt4xrdPq3ogmUhyPtVwIxuc66kWiZHbFd0vIP4mWsNIkKKWMKhCMyZ0WY0aK_S2J9C0kA3RgQjtXdAb565-z2wGgP2Km0FplH-y4o1txgytbD3Kew6RlvtBDlU9diHAs/s600/alibracciapinne-intero-2.jpg" width="222" /></a></div>
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Friday I went with my friend Bengio to "Sasso Corbaio" where he had just opened earlier in the week a new route called "Alibracciapinne". This short route that goes through a little cave is more like a 7 moves boulder problem... nothing to clip, nothing to hesitate: you do it or you just take the fall. It was still pretty warm and It took me basically all day to finally stick that move and quickly run at the belay. We agreed with Bengio it could be around the 8b grade... but we both suck at grading so you'll have to go there and judge on your own!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpmvEFGGJS3nY78Fwp-Zm519D_FS-VA0xDxnGsk4BkIeEmTGf6fbIHFWIV6s0TI4TvyTRMu-8jKB0WcAwSoxodU003Fuaiw2AxZTSe52jrrmxjPr2fIjmD7R1XrapctXA-cJPju29wmWk/s1600/alberi-vetta-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpmvEFGGJS3nY78Fwp-Zm519D_FS-VA0xDxnGsk4BkIeEmTGf6fbIHFWIV6s0TI4TvyTRMu-8jKB0WcAwSoxodU003Fuaiw2AxZTSe52jrrmxjPr2fIjmD7R1XrapctXA-cJPju29wmWk/s600/alberi-vetta-1.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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The day after I met with Lorenzo and Trevor (a visiting friend from Sheffield) at the Vetta sector, trying to find cooler temperatures. It was not really cold, but I took some time cleaning a new line on one of the many big boulders spread around "Achille" and I finally gave birth to "Apollo", a great highball problem around 7b+ or 7c that I would recomend to everyone, as the fall is not too bad and the climbing simply great!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBBLz-7rEqPu0OV5vQ7W2Qq1O0LDXDgbe-DAw2I9Tp12gGEjH-4b-yGL8ml8NNg2p6ge4ZXMejtI_fqYr_LlBjTaNSs_2RPJiDCbbv1Gz6MJ1AJlwYIaQtrF8aoqRxLHcw8dDNDJbd4pQ/s1600/apollo-mik-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 6px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="333" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBBLz-7rEqPu0OV5vQ7W2Qq1O0LDXDgbe-DAw2I9Tp12gGEjH-4b-yGL8ml8NNg2p6ge4ZXMejtI_fqYr_LlBjTaNSs_2RPJiDCbbv1Gz6MJ1AJlwYIaQtrF8aoqRxLHcw8dDNDJbd4pQ/s600/apollo-mik-1.jpg" width="222" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzvhCMfGc5Yk8zjfb9zbJKmK0sU5l2dGPPrGmEH0mlho34b6exZADhsfAwiyqMn0BlQQH7UbrSFPFU-8-XxNwQuR0w6qSm3UqADwXxPIe2BYITECfV_XjuWyD11i97SdsmN3kakG6JclM/s1600/apollo-mik-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="333" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzvhCMfGc5Yk8zjfb9zbJKmK0sU5l2dGPPrGmEH0mlho34b6exZADhsfAwiyqMn0BlQQH7UbrSFPFU-8-XxNwQuR0w6qSm3UqADwXxPIe2BYITECfV_XjuWyD11i97SdsmN3kakG6JclM/s600/apollo-mik-3.jpg" width="222" /></a></div>
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It is just the start and many lines are just waiting for somebody to try. Sunday I took a rest day and I travelled south toward Ascoli, where I met with Mauro and Daniela. The next day they showed me something I was willing to see since a long time... and I hope to tell you more about it next time!</div>
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Michele Caminatihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04009755354934828297noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4780108708516896497.post-33699255284901815302012-10-04T10:36:00.002+02:002012-10-04T10:38:37.215+02:00Orco Trad Climbing Meeting 2012<div style="text-align: justify;">
Two weeks ago I had quite an interesting experience in Orco Valley and I think it's worth to share with you some thoughts before writing again boring stuff about Rocklands and grades... ;-)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6Q16y1iPJuYssohX93RQr7ahyphenhyphen7Cwl8C4aMg-Zb4u47IejaKKDvOcKwa5Uw7hoXjAJ9eKmQBtkGTPY7s6CwKTo-PaD0Q5kDAezji3hPDS8esVSlOwCZ4BHG82cYet8czEgLJWpKcxm2Ko/s1600/caporal_mik-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6Q16y1iPJuYssohX93RQr7ahyphenhyphen7Cwl8C4aMg-Zb4u47IejaKKDvOcKwa5Uw7hoXjAJ9eKmQBtkGTPY7s6CwKTo-PaD0Q5kDAezji3hPDS8esVSlOwCZ4BHG82cYet8czEgLJWpKcxm2Ko/s600/caporal_mik-2.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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Also this year I've had the pleasure to participate as a guest to the second international trad climbing meeting organized in Valle dell' Orco by the Italian Alpine Club. During the first two days I've had the opportunity to see the famous walls of Sergent and Caporal and admire their stunning granite lines that proved to be an irresistible attraction also for a boulderer like me!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEMA0h7M3nvRtZ2Z_0Yrvf4ofzlXxIyV6cWbK8l2Cjkkf41b0TtjPpisReWG7hOlDzQdgWWx7Db82yVPPLXZ4pqtuRoW9cJY0G36wGIGsuYAOYNxDpT8hS82vsQVBaLKPQHDUoOBf0f6M/s1600/caporal_james-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEMA0h7M3nvRtZ2Z_0Yrvf4ofzlXxIyV6cWbK8l2Cjkkf41b0TtjPpisReWG7hOlDzQdgWWx7Db82yVPPLXZ4pqtuRoW9cJY0G36wGIGsuYAOYNxDpT8hS82vsQVBaLKPQHDUoOBf0f6M/s600/caporal_james-1.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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I've had the opportunity to make my first real experience on a multi-pitch, and learn something from much more experienced climbers... I wonder if one day I will also manage to bring my skills on these super smooth walls and help to bridge the different climbing disciplines, once considered so distant, but nowadays getting clearly ever closer.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhOsFo6RZlmrz8mm5jrl7995frqBFvEcuD4p3DFBwZW8WID_CNpxQGo3BT2iB_o5xDCIJA7GOSedW3yI1YNXDQ6cJ9Tk4MiBhtv6TLcUs_SFrcI-mMTjsFr666b0OrO8nlYmig0SaU63I/s1600/caporal_james-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhOsFo6RZlmrz8mm5jrl7995frqBFvEcuD4p3DFBwZW8WID_CNpxQGo3BT2iB_o5xDCIJA7GOSedW3yI1YNXDQ6cJ9Tk4MiBhtv6TLcUs_SFrcI-mMTjsFr666b0OrO8nlYmig0SaU63I/s600/caporal_james-2.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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Thursday evening I held a little talk called "Boulder Trad", where I retraced the steps of my climbing life, showing pictures and short movies about my bouldering trips and my latest experiences of traditional climbing, explaining what I found in common between these two disciplines apparently so different.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9MqxYG3hQKofGjlR2NcJQzCnibkpiZy75xgC8GikYl5XxnjTcC4T8a1FCXvPT2HKQD2hMXYV6IcNIpVinpD8uhLLE4UsZ0PAeXuVf6K0j_Nw6srsf78zL269NmAqUWWPgXSeI4jPwx1c/s1600/greenspit-pete-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9MqxYG3hQKofGjlR2NcJQzCnibkpiZy75xgC8GikYl5XxnjTcC4T8a1FCXvPT2HKQD2hMXYV6IcNIpVinpD8uhLLE4UsZ0PAeXuVf6K0j_Nw6srsf78zL269NmAqUWWPgXSeI4jPwx1c/s600/greenspit-pete-2.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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Friday I could follow young Pete Whittaker in action on some of the hardest European cracks such as "Greenspit" and "Glowes of War": the boy jams and sneaks into these horizontal cracks as it was daily routine, but I could see for myself how different is this style and how much technique is required! Today is Saturday and we came to the last day of the meeting opened to the public and to whoever wanted to discover the world of traditional climbing. Weather has not been great in the morning, discouraging perhaps some people, but it soon turned into good, giving us another wonderful day of climbing in the valley.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZemSNn4nNXp6vkjlFVSclh30pyUN8SYpNT6HkqTWtgoBJFjU-knqxSp-HvpDLQ6CO-DLbfl0dLe543-71zbsbvSv0uFv_LnDPr32XLvWqHnkDl5aHUD_jCkmfZFPoJbziDh9NrdkSjJw/s1600/greenspit-pete-friends.jpg" imageanchor="1" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZemSNn4nNXp6vkjlFVSclh30pyUN8SYpNT6HkqTWtgoBJFjU-knqxSp-HvpDLQ6CO-DLbfl0dLe543-71zbsbvSv0uFv_LnDPr32XLvWqHnkDl5aHUD_jCkmfZFPoJbziDh9NrdkSjJw/s600/greenspit-pete-friends.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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As for myself I've finally climbed the famous "Kosterlitz" crack and I've managed to close business with a route that repelled me earlier in the week. There's no better sensation of coming back home feeling that you have learned something.<br />
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22/09/2012</div>
Michele Caminatihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04009755354934828297noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4780108708516896497.post-14950291331842194492012-08-30T00:45:00.000+02:002012-08-30T00:45:59.457+02:00Rocklands 2012: mr. Ego and the global climbing community<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
Two weeks have passed since I came back to Italy from Rocklands and I found myself right in the middle of this nightmare we call "summer" with temperatures reaching 40° and 80% of humidity... sweet were the days when I used to wake up with the noise of birds, to have breakfast wearing my jacket in front of the gas heater, having the dilemma of where would be best to go climbing, even if it would have been probably better just to rest.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuDXesQE0bifE_mGpbh6LhS1aYqxGd24FFM2BXS93Gv3K9pochJ-hbku1p7cN5-_5wNUtfMPF05dpDuZ1LANTOfYRXc5uDR9R_DdeaOKzNct99mUkckIK4ypdamaF8fGwYLxvqpiDIUxw/s1600/roadside-strada-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuDXesQE0bifE_mGpbh6LhS1aYqxGd24FFM2BXS93Gv3K9pochJ-hbku1p7cN5-_5wNUtfMPF05dpDuZ1LANTOfYRXc5uDR9R_DdeaOKzNct99mUkckIK4ypdamaF8fGwYLxvqpiDIUxw/s600/roadside-strada-1.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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Now I'm stuck home, too warm to climb, I have time to look back at this experience, trying to remember every single person I've met and the good times we had together. I have to say it has been a good trip, probably even better than last year. Even if I could not send all the problems I wanted to do, I had the opportunity to make a lot of new friends from different countries sharing my climbing and my home with them. Everybody was trying his best on some classic problems or futuristic new lines: sometimes you had success, sometimes defeat, bad skin and sore muscles... just as climbing should be.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgq9dA2yBp6MCB5e7UsYxpScq84t5dqZYLcK3jPTvtvCGFUexpt1ilUVpal9rCkzgfmbkY453CaYzCq5PaNlq409LbVSCiFXHSxrApUNykbaD2U2LvHkRCvl6IPu_TTluv_N84_cKkJX4/s1600/pinotage-lars-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgq9dA2yBp6MCB5e7UsYxpScq84t5dqZYLcK3jPTvtvCGFUexpt1ilUVpal9rCkzgfmbkY453CaYzCq5PaNlq409LbVSCiFXHSxrApUNykbaD2U2LvHkRCvl6IPu_TTluv_N84_cKkJX4/s600/pinotage-lars-1.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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Saying that I mean I truly had a great experience and I really enjoyed my climbing: Rocklands is not just a super "hardcore" destination where you can go and try all the hardest problem on earth, it is indeed a really nice place where you can be just fine sitting down looking at the horizon without bothering about climbing at all. Despite that there are several things I noticed during this trip, as well as last year, that deserve some deeper thoughts than the usual blog post where you say how cool was your experience, how hard was your climbing or how long your tick list... this things are more connected with the climbing community itself, and to what do we search in our climbing and what do we feel important about it.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieuY25UNfuNLGqlcTfV6akj7Pc8fEovD9DPxErMShKl3v1G3WDJ6woC9UInIQZCJfYcZMsAoEQk4u8el_lM0q6Ew9sz_P62WXWTQiUyR-jFl_8sBh8dNQKZkeEk8CYKH8j9uJM9ucWMAk/s1600/lucertola-small-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieuY25UNfuNLGqlcTfV6akj7Pc8fEovD9DPxErMShKl3v1G3WDJ6woC9UInIQZCJfYcZMsAoEQk4u8el_lM0q6Ew9sz_P62WXWTQiUyR-jFl_8sBh8dNQKZkeEk8CYKH8j9uJM9ucWMAk/s600/lucertola-small-1.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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Rocklands is obviously a well known bouldering destination were you do really meet people from all around the world, and offers a great opportunity to observe things on a wider scale than our small little spots scattered around Europe, which are full of "<em>locals</em>", local habits, local rules, and of course... local grades. (and <strong>yes, also Fontainebleau is like that!</strong>)</div>
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Rocklands on the other hand counts just a few locals, it is actually quite hard to meet a south african climber. Boulders have been discovered and opened by many different people from different countries, at quite different times, starting back in 1996, when I was still 11 playing at school. There is no "local" community that really keeps one eye on the place, <strong>you do not meet the 50 years old man that comes to you and tells you how you have to climb a problem</strong>. When you are there you do really feel that place belongs to everybody, it belongs to our global climbing community that reads news on the web and looks at climbing videos on Vimeo or Youtube.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioObkjbyHe99JOOcAWOZKY0gVcGJ8EmVoKslM-uXgJAEJMiwo0SpzWrK6gCL3j67gHfs5Kl2n7SbDN30RhGMQDSw31ZOrnLyyRSgr7qi0b8e5RpcvVvRIqkfULLgthGcxd4pY-fPXhnSg/s1600/poison_dwarf-jarmo-bokeh-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioObkjbyHe99JOOcAWOZKY0gVcGJ8EmVoKslM-uXgJAEJMiwo0SpzWrK6gCL3j67gHfs5Kl2n7SbDN30RhGMQDSw31ZOrnLyyRSgr7qi0b8e5RpcvVvRIqkfULLgthGcxd4pY-fPXhnSg/s600/poison_dwarf-jarmo-bokeh-1.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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Let's try to start with that: <strong>when are we happy about our climbing? When do we feel proud of something we do?</strong> During this trip I've seen a lot of people psyched to send their first 7x or 8y grade boulder problem, and <strong>they were truly happy when they did, and it was a pleasure to watch and share those moments with them</strong>. Of course It is one of the best feelings: you are on a big trip in a climbing heaven, you are living your dream and pushing your limits achieving something you've never done before and sometimes also surprisingly fast... but <strong>is that really true?</strong> If you look back at your normal routine down at your home crag with your long standing 7b project you tried for ages and cannot still do, while there you just sent your first 7c after just few days of efforts ... what would have been best? Send the old 7b project or this amazing new 7c line in Rocklands? <strong>Of course to 90% of the people 7c is better than 7b...</strong></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzul5jMn7ETegjiy_IIb4oUGjL8BfXNh-zGSifAFLq_ld-PTenB9qZ1VYbEWy14P8N9BO-N3ezX-qe24nUoSSxRUTwn5pIijb_A9xGWt6_252vVTWj14rlaxjdNrCyO0r59Km_aNq2rWk/s1600/hen-house-back-2-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzul5jMn7ETegjiy_IIb4oUGjL8BfXNh-zGSifAFLq_ld-PTenB9qZ1VYbEWy14P8N9BO-N3ezX-qe24nUoSSxRUTwn5pIijb_A9xGWt6_252vVTWj14rlaxjdNrCyO0r59Km_aNq2rWk/s600/hen-house-back-2-1.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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But in the end <strong>what is 7c? What is 7b?</strong> These are just numbers somebody put in front of the name of two different pieces of rock, one of which we couldn't climb and one of which we just managed to climb. I think we should all learn to be happier if we manage to do something that has been a real challenge for our body: the hardest the challenge, the happier we should feel when we finally accomplish it. That's quite simple, and it is the only way we can use to measure how hard has been something for us: <strong>the amount of time and efforts it took comparing it to other things</strong>. But there is another important factor that plays a key role in our perception of happiness: <strong>our ego</strong>. We all tend to feel better when our efforts can be recognized in an official and public way, so as it is impossible for other people to understand our personal feelings regarding a specific climb, we created grades and use them to tell pretty much anything of what we just did to other people.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyr1CzXwWgT5c_yljsfwudh5vnnAfjju7laC9AUEv951WOqzJv-4jUFVvykoXC4Yb60r4Jrzw9EdJafAoW3m5GFm2ouz8Aiymutgp-0hvZz9nAOMXOveTiSHw_GW4ejV7fwki7lzn24TU/s1600/fakir_of_ipi-bokeh-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyr1CzXwWgT5c_yljsfwudh5vnnAfjju7laC9AUEv951WOqzJv-4jUFVvykoXC4Yb60r4Jrzw9EdJafAoW3m5GFm2ouz8Aiymutgp-0hvZz9nAOMXOveTiSHw_GW4ejV7fwki7lzn24TU/s600/fakir_of_ipi-bokeh-1.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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So here lies a dilemma: if we just want to try our best we can go and pick up <strong>whatever problem we like, that represents a real challenge for us</strong>, otherwise if we also want our efforts to be widely recognized we need to find a problem we like, that represents a real challenge for us <strong>and that also has an attractive grade</strong>, that's for sure a harder task... but here our ego can help to simplify things a little bit... <strong>don't we really like the problem so much? Has it been less challenging than expected? No problem, our ego does a pretty good job to make us happy anyway whenever an interesting grade is involved... true?</strong></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaKw8x-Gnks23RcNQp2osqwWwKpS8W9v3p_7ACubJt1nknPg5RbT5VhaJH0i8wvziyRPl5eT2V5Ov8hAW7tM9VkMqo0ODETFUZo_uD_rKcCO4TxqdbUlfxaSU7Q4xgTWL8oOZ5cY8pBrI/s1600/weichei-mik-1-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaKw8x-Gnks23RcNQp2osqwWwKpS8W9v3p_7ACubJt1nknPg5RbT5VhaJH0i8wvziyRPl5eT2V5Ov8hAW7tM9VkMqo0ODETFUZo_uD_rKcCO4TxqdbUlfxaSU7Q4xgTWL8oOZ5cY8pBrI/s600/weichei-mik-1-1.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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I think we all have to learn how to balance between our ego and our feelings, and that's because if I look back into my climbing life <strong>I'm starting to forget many of the climbs I did, but i will never forget the ones that has been a real challenge to accomplish</strong>, it seems that our ego struggles to keep up with that in the long term. A great example is the <strong>FLASH</strong> thing. Nowadays all that matters is to flash a boulder problems, it is a harder task for sure and makes out of a less interesting grade still good news to support our ego. But what do we retain of a problem we flash after a while? Personally almost nothing, there is no big fight like in an on-sight sport climbing route, most of the time is just watching video betas on the internet and go execute the moves like a robot. <strong>No fight, no epic, no creativity. We should feel almost sad if we send a problem first try</strong>, it did not give us the challenge it could have done. But we're indeed happy if we do, at the point that sometimes we try problems just to flash them and if we don't manage to we just walk away.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOYEwq9bsE_70sbMlGJqb8oRtRa4xhYxudQ_HIlScdWIRtM0Rek6PPLyQBobyd-_Pc0yZASJZ_iRgjfMRGi5ouOc4HDPu6i0dnOHp_vEiNEL4S-sq3yaxPiof8Y4rKG_JVgh1kGst1d5w/s1600/out_of_balance-miha-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOYEwq9bsE_70sbMlGJqb8oRtRa4xhYxudQ_HIlScdWIRtM0Rek6PPLyQBobyd-_Pc0yZASJZ_iRgjfMRGi5ouOc4HDPu6i0dnOHp_vEiNEL4S-sq3yaxPiof8Y4rKG_JVgh1kGst1d5w/s600/out_of_balance-miha-1.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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Taking things to excess we will end up just to try numbers, to browse the guidebook in search of something of a desired grade we can send quickly, and especially if we are a "pro" climbers, to try <strong>something that will make interesting news</strong>, leaving behind everything else, even if we like it, but we feel it would be a harder task, or just not newsworthy.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPKkn0917SMzTNp0RMNTvd7WWNC-3To3ikssCu-fHGo5MES74XGqbs2XkBcUOZ7b1uRKr-ETtNcKr1mj8tMq9zxd6YLJiF1fM7NJYReebLZoL82_NOVk76fQ84-c6NrTMMzYUxylFMCQo/s1600/startrail-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPKkn0917SMzTNp0RMNTvd7WWNC-3To3ikssCu-fHGo5MES74XGqbs2XkBcUOZ7b1uRKr-ETtNcKr1mj8tMq9zxd6YLJiF1fM7NJYReebLZoL82_NOVk76fQ84-c6NrTMMzYUxylFMCQo/s600/startrail-1.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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That's an aspect of climbing I've experienced in Rocklands, and I can experience every day surfing the internet: everybody going crazy with big numbers and big news, as if <strong>we're more likely to get happiness out of our ego when we found ourselves in the middle of the global climbing community rather than at our quiet home crag</strong>. At home, where the "locals" pretty much know everything, and grades have already been lowered after endless discussions , we still feel free to engage in long big fights on some problems we like even if they have a low grade, but when we go on a big trip and meet altogether in the global climbing community, we like to go big, and <strong>we tend to try the problems that will satisfy more our ego than our feelings</strong>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY40KPnXwFt7taG_ewi7hDWU9FsLr3oFmumRQeo653vf7IR62LnZUrgSoAwZdZhIaNvz7RhJvJIZFzCoi_FOLC5k4Ihe4L5fBZvCoy0M3MySoJp2F-D__f_R8W3PbBHlfu9BZyppjh6TA/s1600/kiesl-clement-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY40KPnXwFt7taG_ewi7hDWU9FsLr3oFmumRQeo653vf7IR62LnZUrgSoAwZdZhIaNvz7RhJvJIZFzCoi_FOLC5k4Ihe4L5fBZvCoy0M3MySoJp2F-D__f_R8W3PbBHlfu9BZyppjh6TA/s600/kiesl-clement-1.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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Fortunately <strong>in Rocklands it's so full of great and beautiful lines that it's not hard to find something that will be good for both your ego and your feelings</strong>, but <strong>our smiling and excited ego makes quite a mess when it comes to the fact of being rational</strong>, so if you add the lack of strict vigilance by "local" climbers, you get to the point that it's <strong>quite hard to find rational and harmonious grades</strong>, even because everybody's ego kicks in at a different level, and most of all... at a different grade!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLQhZDEYCirpErQanw6unxAEcrjJqldBzyvUIh3D3_cSh5RF7UT7ly5IrcZyad9tJ_GlVwRoJVyg3I8HCejZrm_h2iXHO6S_vk8PUDX7MrcWEA3qL7ToNL2wnXTPes4oF0t9_7O6tWleo/s1600/solar_power-jarmo-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 6px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="333" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLQhZDEYCirpErQanw6unxAEcrjJqldBzyvUIh3D3_cSh5RF7UT7ly5IrcZyad9tJ_GlVwRoJVyg3I8HCejZrm_h2iXHO6S_vk8PUDX7MrcWEA3qL7ToNL2wnXTPes4oF0t9_7O6tWleo/s600/solar_power-jarmo-1.jpg" width="222" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm0h6lUzi4ljSebLvaZeupiD4l8BzOoIB4cVX5W2zdkzRorDj7GrZ9r30kgXueZzNClofqv5rqaT5Tsy0QX7dBxj7AtAEJrWdX1ZbdWJa2Qrv5VylqYTCjzsUlKA_Al1dU77p56Xhykfc/s1600/rainbow-bright-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="333" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm0h6lUzi4ljSebLvaZeupiD4l8BzOoIB4cVX5W2zdkzRorDj7GrZ9r30kgXueZzNClofqv5rqaT5Tsy0QX7dBxj7AtAEJrWdX1ZbdWJa2Qrv5VylqYTCjzsUlKA_Al1dU77p56Xhykfc/s600/rainbow-bright-1.jpg" width="222" /></a></div>
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Hope I didn't annoy you too much with those random thoughts I had in my head, anyway <strong>you can always just look at the pictures, as we all did when we were young and we had a book in our hands</strong>... but if you're interested next time I'll try to be more specific and make some concrete examples. Otherwise you may just enjoy reading the list of the strange things I liked most and I won't forget about this trip... so, like it or not, wait for a second post!</div>
Michele Caminatihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04009755354934828297noreply@blogger.com17tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4780108708516896497.post-53921358567217712732012-07-21T12:49:00.001+02:002012-08-29T23:19:57.171+02:00Rocklands 2012, in the middle of the dream.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhEOVJLaotk5Dw4QM-lfa4nuL0ZWE29ZVwGdz5JfVN9UgfkSG3xcaMt1sPzjox1jEUGebNcceG_dtye5jMyCKsH2V9kycHHcC9yvzz26uhkAFUStr-0j9gaZXuW-6-Jl5XtMs8k5hn7go/s1600/DSC07377-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhEOVJLaotk5Dw4QM-lfa4nuL0ZWE29ZVwGdz5JfVN9UgfkSG3xcaMt1sPzjox1jEUGebNcceG_dtye5jMyCKsH2V9kycHHcC9yvzz26uhkAFUStr-0j9gaZXuW-6-Jl5XtMs8k5hn7go/s600/DSC07377-1.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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It has been almost a month I am in Rocklands now and time has come to write something about my trip. I landed in Cape Town on the 26th of June under cold heavy rain, and coming from 38° in Italy it has been quite a refreshing start... My friend Clement was waiting for me and time we got the car we were already driving along the N7 dreaming about rocks and red sunsets of the Pakhuis pass.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj107Y0iIXDcn4UnIeEimYwKhS60tQFB59K_uw5p4fVw93-gOg_M4B3F29aHSMfCv3xhuI63MZMymSebJH-ksLKysyNcqUicd5KtQJRssfkBSF1I1QalQ6gvFnWSNpt_Sckh2sWVHHvEpY/s1600/DSC07250-Modifica-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj107Y0iIXDcn4UnIeEimYwKhS60tQFB59K_uw5p4fVw93-gOg_M4B3F29aHSMfCv3xhuI63MZMymSebJH-ksLKysyNcqUicd5KtQJRssfkBSF1I1QalQ6gvFnWSNpt_Sckh2sWVHHvEpY/s600/DSC07250-Modifica-1.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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This time we found a nice place to share at the <a href="http://www.alphaexcelsior.co.za/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Alpha Excelsior Farm</a>: here is a vineyard, a lovely <a href="http://www.alphaexcelsior.co.za/hh.php" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">coffe shop</a> run by Becky and we're just in front of the <a href="http://www.depakhuys.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Pakhyus</a> campsite where to go bouldering or meet people around the fireplace in front of the bar at night.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhepjS91BLVwDs0WOx1Ou_CnFZpyPeD38t-efyq8jqdrWisQzzMElUswbhA-VFrIS0aP0sbY22hKIJu6PnLdbjC8vCSW-jRo4f8Yp4nCk-8Oquy6ImNa1j361JHfl6Uivs03piQ9VDxhyphenhyphenU/s1600/DSC07370-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhepjS91BLVwDs0WOx1Ou_CnFZpyPeD38t-efyq8jqdrWisQzzMElUswbhA-VFrIS0aP0sbY22hKIJu6PnLdbjC8vCSW-jRo4f8Yp4nCk-8Oquy6ImNa1j361JHfl6Uivs03piQ9VDxhyphenhyphenU/s600/DSC07370-1.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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We soon got to know some finnish, norwegian and slovenian guys who are sharing the house with us and it's nice to go climbing together, having a barbecue at night or just discuss which is the best pizza recipe...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlBSEPOWT5cEGOFjWFUEL-pZlbtms56pVif3B0ESXJ-BBnmMbXFgcRwoKImL5nxUdwnEdjsLXF14T49X8NUrH8U_AyOvVDaHmSAZUWT6LQhiamIbxuzHuqoXYa14Cb-EFdlCS_PHKwagA/s1600/DSC06914-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 3px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlBSEPOWT5cEGOFjWFUEL-pZlbtms56pVif3B0ESXJ-BBnmMbXFgcRwoKImL5nxUdwnEdjsLXF14T49X8NUrH8U_AyOvVDaHmSAZUWT6LQhiamIbxuzHuqoXYa14Cb-EFdlCS_PHKwagA/s320/DSC06914-1.jpg" width="148" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinLC34-x3csqZOvUa0I95Ix7c3i_y6YcZH_Ywvj2UJNO9ybQMBgNGzWOlSsoNffLmngj4_GeYhbB9XeMUH3wq7bjLH0nun3IxEwf8EF2EVkixV23fkBfaPvoMofyvyGHafyGYRF6BzEHE/s1600/DSC07089-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 3px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinLC34-x3csqZOvUa0I95Ix7c3i_y6YcZH_Ywvj2UJNO9ybQMBgNGzWOlSsoNffLmngj4_GeYhbB9XeMUH3wq7bjLH0nun3IxEwf8EF2EVkixV23fkBfaPvoMofyvyGHafyGYRF6BzEHE/s320/DSC07089-1.jpg" width="148" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3V2g3ww5XyB_nVBU4pKbzLHK5WRWkTVW7JB2DGPfC2yWvrgjhsvz0Ou0zF365gf7QC5AXFa8R3SbhHT6lG5qNZ42ien-D6MVKIO1exs_1Lo9BnkQVXAbgU5UShIMB7jLPEAHHsp1eRKE/s1600/DSC07015-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3V2g3ww5XyB_nVBU4pKbzLHK5WRWkTVW7JB2DGPfC2yWvrgjhsvz0Ou0zF365gf7QC5AXFa8R3SbhHT6lG5qNZ42ien-D6MVKIO1exs_1Lo9BnkQVXAbgU5UShIMB7jLPEAHHsp1eRKE/s320/DSC07015-1.jpg" width="148" /></a></div>
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Weather has been fairly good comparing to last year, it means not too warm and good to explore new climbs in the lower sectors I struggled to visit last year because of the heat. Just one thing got worse: you are now quite sure to be charged 5 euros a day if you want to climb, even if you just want to try a problem for about half an hour in the evening... it feels more like going into a climbing gym instead of being free bouldering into the wild.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5fkP4etBoYvv9DjG1zZwxbFWgQdhV_Bt6KSGD9bdIkqrt0fo-JAnN5acBsSstmK4JPbpJeWwSbDpVd9ZUjywzbhNuyRjhjaiR8etp9D5Kzn2Pf_HktGI4KnH948vpRkVaB6EIwcHmwxQ/s1600/DSC07291-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5fkP4etBoYvv9DjG1zZwxbFWgQdhV_Bt6KSGD9bdIkqrt0fo-JAnN5acBsSstmK4JPbpJeWwSbDpVd9ZUjywzbhNuyRjhjaiR8etp9D5Kzn2Pf_HktGI4KnH948vpRkVaB6EIwcHmwxQ/s600/DSC07291-1.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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I had time to try some of the boulders I was more willing to climb, and luckily enough I've already managed to climb some really good ones such as <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioMDpD3e_RfArUeLBTiKLjhjyidq10MKeTZKIEgKMW0zoHD5n71kS0jG1QeGsN22PLZZWVRAhLoKfTs74EljpU7IesQSvBLPH0-3WOCV5RVKU9SD_aYBhvjJcho3HuCTiaXrLq1buhI5w/s1600/DSC07495-Modifica-1.jpg" target="_blank">Leap of Faith</a>, The Arc, Tea With Elmarie, The Hatchling, Megalo, Quintessential end <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyyjdl01k_HHeG2J0xG4psSmVUc5HAP-LypryiScc64XZQTLkRzmmS9mPva8KPYdtB5xnD4Z0XLaQrh6t3qgbZVjBEmXnZdW6QCZ8-gm88onQTTAwjkNdvurvrRPhxD2wb2ulRbXdwA0M/s1600/el-corazon-2-1.jpg" target="_blank">El Corazon</a>...<br />
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Each of these problems is really good and I think I will remember about the feelings it gave me for quite a long time, I just don't want to talk about grades at the moment, as I still think there are many inconsistencies with most of the places where I use to climb in Europe, and it will deserve deeper thoughts on the difficult subject.<br />
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At the moment I prefer just to leave you with fresh shots of our experience in this nice strange place: when I'm not climbing I'm trying to get some good pictures you can see on this <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/69165335@N03/sets/72157630415513732" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Flickr album</a>, while Clement is always willing to film what's going on and show it in his weekly updates on his <a href="https://vimeo.com/sandstones" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Vimeo account</a>. I'm really happy he captured my ascent of El Corazon, as it was one of the things I most wanted to do and I can now show you the fight it has been on my first session this year.</div>
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Now we're just in the middle of our trip, much has happened and much still have to happen, but we do need a small break from climbing now. Luckily enough some rain has come leaving us time to rest our bodies and eat some proper food that will make us stronger than ever when the sun will come to shine on Rocklands again.</div>
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See you next!</div>
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Michele Caminatihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04009755354934828297noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4780108708516896497.post-49805220678610715692012-06-22T16:54:00.001+02:002012-06-22T16:54:39.618+02:00Lagoni guidebook and System Wall<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Hi everybody, here in Italy is getting really warm and I can't wait to go back to South Africa on monday to breathe some fresh air again... Not much going on recently on the climbing side, but I've been busy working on the Lagoni bouldering guidebook (here you can see a preliminary editing of the look), which should be ready by autumn, and on a video about the System Wall, a new training tool designed by my friend <a href="mailto:info@climbingtraining.it" target="_blank">Roberto Bagnoli</a>... feel free to ask him if you have any questions...</div>
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Next time I hope to give you updates directly from Rocklands! Enjoy the summer, hope you won't melt under the sun ;-)</div>Michele Caminatihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04009755354934828297noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4780108708516896497.post-65519616215580988632012-05-27T09:23:00.002+02:002012-05-27T09:25:54.331+02:00Il Dado è tratto !<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Giovedì ho approfittato di una delle ultime belle giornate ai Lagoni prima dell' avvento del caldo estivo e delle zanzare per andare a provare questo progettino trad che cavalca uno dei rari tetti della zona. Avevo addocchiato la linea da un paio di anni, mi ero calato per pulirla, ma poi non ero più tornato in quanto all' epoca era ancora al di sopra delle mie capacità e del mio scarso materiale. L'arrampicarla con la corda dall' alto non è stato un gran problema, in fondo si tratta "solo" di un 7b/+ boulder su grossi svasi, però la dimensione e l' affidabilità delle protezioni nelle piccole crepe del tetto ha richiesto una meticolosa fase di test, che ha visto fallire parecchi pretendenti prima di giungere al fatidico Superlight Rock #4, l'unico che sembrava in grado di reggere nella scaglia sul bordo del tetto.</div>
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E allora sia... "<strong>Il Dado è Tratto</strong>" mi son detto, sono partito, ed è così nato il primo vero <strong>E7 6c</strong> dei Lagoni che si possa fare con la corda senza bisogno di crash per salvarsi le caviglie. A tutti gli aspiranti ripetitori sarò contento di dare consigli, ma tutto il materiale chè può servirvi in fondo è questo...</div>Michele Caminatihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04009755354934828297noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4780108708516896497.post-59275529515401764232012-05-01T16:42:00.000+02:002012-05-01T16:42:13.180+02:00An Italian back on Grit<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Two weeks have passed since I've come back home, and I think I've seen the double the rain I saw during my five weeks staying in Sheffield... every time I look out of the window I just see dark clouds and big drops, and I soon miss the endless afternoons I spent out in the Peak with a lovely sunshine and a nice breeze.</div>
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I have to say I've been quite lucky with weather. It has not been the best to pull hard on sharp boulder problems, (which is what I usually do the rest of the year) but at least it has been nearly always dry, and I could go out and try as many routes I wished, without the nightmare of getting too cold and end up with frozen tips... I'm Italian after all... even if it was too warm to try the hardest routes out there I still had to finish my homeworks and repeat many of the classics lines of the 80's and 90's, and there was nothing better than some sunshine to cheer you up for that. Eventually I could always go down at the Climbing Works to finish myself off if I wanted to!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOGFhn3bbdAQd_upkgZaBK-h6t6v2lwV72tBXz8ffm8XjKqMJr8aHs1ud4pIgvLx10gprC1z2FWBZE-vw4Jv373ZTjhwfUyJCsQuUv9VXLubSVKa1xa_E2WmuC36DJL_T7PNuPvFxLleg/s1600/---_0015-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOGFhn3bbdAQd_upkgZaBK-h6t6v2lwV72tBXz8ffm8XjKqMJr8aHs1ud4pIgvLx10gprC1z2FWBZE-vw4Jv373ZTjhwfUyJCsQuUv9VXLubSVKa1xa_E2WmuC36DJL_T7PNuPvFxLleg/s320/---_0015-1.jpg" width="225" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuGBn8Ba-hIzEAImJsS6UL43I9sqfcPjEhTz-UdJ1a9U9fKF4Nc9yXq_G-6h8mVAXXPhVRsrlB27aELDmsxrUfClVlWT7g9EqAWtCwjuGMbLFR1jNvHz_tzt-bwm3FlY5kgDk_4RneSbw/s1600/---_0026-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuGBn8Ba-hIzEAImJsS6UL43I9sqfcPjEhTz-UdJ1a9U9fKF4Nc9yXq_G-6h8mVAXXPhVRsrlB27aELDmsxrUfClVlWT7g9EqAWtCwjuGMbLFR1jNvHz_tzt-bwm3FlY5kgDk_4RneSbw/s320/---_0026-1.jpg" width="225" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcENUntJW1Y2uHlhxgS2c0iL3hz7IA2c1J7-GUrwjIakSi08N7tPROFM5uuvlMj5Yll3X6m3mmGKoNGFD2qMveRXp9DzqhxfsdhLlC04wrDP_cTBLHg43LpQep3SNJWE_jUZccYArXdns/s1600/---_0011-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcENUntJW1Y2uHlhxgS2c0iL3hz7IA2c1J7-GUrwjIakSi08N7tPROFM5uuvlMj5Yll3X6m3mmGKoNGFD2qMveRXp9DzqhxfsdhLlC04wrDP_cTBLHg43LpQep3SNJWE_jUZccYArXdns/s320/---_0011-1.jpg" width="225" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSdeWqIJlmsYZyRkupR3wCKO1KslzjanMDvL9LVDLMMn51YEh4V10l3MA_j4LdLo-5RQuRtstQMwv7Dq-nqz0jatNlfJx9VSveby4VQuqJcR6KiGjBu2cK8Ded0szLy3ErmNJMsLcRdBU/s1600/---_0013-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSdeWqIJlmsYZyRkupR3wCKO1KslzjanMDvL9LVDLMMn51YEh4V10l3MA_j4LdLo-5RQuRtstQMwv7Dq-nqz0jatNlfJx9VSveby4VQuqJcR6KiGjBu2cK8Ded0szLy3ErmNJMsLcRdBU/s320/---_0013-1.jpg" width="225" /></a></div>
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So back to Sheffield, back to porridge oats, carvery and big tea mugs, back to see old friends, make new ones and climb on this fantastic rock that can give you everything for a moment and just leave you with nothing most of the times. At beginning there were four of us: me, Filippo, Gianluca and Lorenzo (you may better know him as "<i>Nibile</i>"...) but we soon lost a member who went to fight his way out the darkness of <i>The Cave</i> leaving us alone to deal with chilly wind over the exposed gritstone edges.</div>
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In fact at the beginning it has been chilly at times, and I already told you of my first experiences of the trip on <i><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJfH8XrpmF1ZjUb-Bqhx5xQ5wbz9mrgFodIHZVzQ4Dl2BwxQSioKsFh6H9_ZoL3nfm63DG5WkD91W9qvXJwFdBwwrpXwkF2px8lw_2vPueILSXVvsUUIOc3q5PZNupc2Ot_50E0iwl6D0/s1600/careless-mik-5-1.jpg" target="_blank">Careless Torque</a></i> and <i><a href="http://vimeo.com/37828852" target="_blank">The End of Affair</a></i> (see my previous post). Soon after I started to look at the sharp one, the famous <i><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKWcqE27f95la9gzwi989yeArFeM1VlROgmpS7UhaGVy2rmy4jf6LdLcnru2opXhyphenhypheneGdh-ytk13aU1Sc2oPqUoFkSZLEy2CrYcZ2kBRhCOAZdf47_gOyultMAiOydiTGAkNEEo4kCOdx0/s1600/Voyager.jpg" target="_blank">Voyager</a></i>, a big overhanging prow put up in late 2005 by mr. Ben Moon, which has now become together with <i>The Ace</i>, the symbol of hard gritstone bouldering in the Peak District. I briefly tried the problem a couple of times last year while spotting my friend Dan, but I still had to find a sequence good enough for me.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKWcqE27f95la9gzwi989yeArFeM1VlROgmpS7UhaGVy2rmy4jf6LdLcnru2opXhyphenhypheneGdh-ytk13aU1Sc2oPqUoFkSZLEy2CrYcZ2kBRhCOAZdf47_gOyultMAiOydiTGAkNEEo4kCOdx0/s1600/Voyager.jpg" imageanchor="1" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKWcqE27f95la9gzwi989yeArFeM1VlROgmpS7UhaGVy2rmy4jf6LdLcnru2opXhyphenhypheneGdh-ytk13aU1Sc2oPqUoFkSZLEy2CrYcZ2kBRhCOAZdf47_gOyultMAiOydiTGAkNEEo4kCOdx0/s600/Voyager.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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The problem is the closer you look at the rock the bigger you see the pebbles you have to pinch and squeeze on the prow in order to stay on... the line is great, but it is really painful, and every time you just have a few goes before tearing big holes open in your fingers leaving blood all over the place. Lucky enough, I could soon figure out a good beta, involving a high heel hook an a massive pebble, and having some skin left I was able to send the stand start the next day on a perfect windy afternoon... (everything is easy on a perfect windy afternoon, isn't it?) But it was not over, the goal was to complete the sitstart: it is logical, hard and still unrepeated since that day in 2006 when Ben was captured in this <i><a href="http://vimeo.com/34832130" target="_blank">video</a></i> that already made history.</div>
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So I went back to try again one or two days afterwards, and I had a few good goes, almost managing to hold the key sloper near the top, but that was it: my fingers were bleeding and I still had three weeks left to climb in the Peak. I was not in a hurry and I just left, quite confident to be able to climb the whole thing before the end of my trip... but I did not take weather into account. In fact we had a few more good days but the <i><a href="http://www.climbingworks.com/the-beta/blog/2012/03/13/The_CWIF_2012_Report/" target="_blank">CWIF</a></i> competition was approaching and I was trying to heal my skin and train a bit for that: I did not want to let the <i><a href="http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/" target="_blank">Beastmaker</a></i> team down because of me, making Ned Feehally and Chris Webb-Parsons angry, as they could have kicked me out of home ;-)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt2cQZY8b52u8EV_q3vF31-f-ag5zw9k3DYYiFKCeTqhnwLfwCDZ-FiugoQ-rEsrMFmcKxtoXY1fNIisCZHRl0mD7Zj6Q2eIb09OpMfSVY1-CfXIKlEggqtJnaXPWlRMvdFJdtTkmG1CQ/s1600/DSC04150-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt2cQZY8b52u8EV_q3vF31-f-ag5zw9k3DYYiFKCeTqhnwLfwCDZ-FiugoQ-rEsrMFmcKxtoXY1fNIisCZHRl0mD7Zj6Q2eIb09OpMfSVY1-CfXIKlEggqtJnaXPWlRMvdFJdtTkmG1CQ/s600/DSC04150-1.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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As a result I trained more indoor (say, more than before) but I still went out in the afternoon trying to do my best on some highballs and routes. The first one has been <i><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt2cQZY8b52u8EV_q3vF31-f-ag5zw9k3DYYiFKCeTqhnwLfwCDZ-FiugoQ-rEsrMFmcKxtoXY1fNIisCZHRl0mD7Zj6Q2eIb09OpMfSVY1-CfXIKlEggqtJnaXPWlRMvdFJdtTkmG1CQ/s1600/DSC04150-1.jpg" target="_blank">The Promise</a></i>. Almost next to Voyager is this short balancy route James Pearson put up in 2007. It was originally given E10 7a, as gear is just a poor ballnut #1 placed in a tiny crack at the height of your feet as you are going for the crux. After several repetitions and some safe falls on that piece of gear the grade went down to E7, but when you are up there you're just relying on that, and nothing else can stop you from falling on some nasty rocks seven or eight meters below. So the route can be quite safe if gear holds or quite dangerous if it fails, (and it recently happened) so you'd probably be happier to have all the pads we had that day to save your ass...</div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="253" mozallowfullscreen="" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/35022331?byline=0&portrait=0&color=ff6600" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="450"></iframe></div>
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After some hesitation to reach the big sloper at the top on my flash try I managed to do it second go, quickly followed by Ned. The fall was not too bad as we managed to build a decent landing, but the climbing is about font 7b+, which is always tricky if you have not tried the moves before, and you really have to commit. It has been for sure a great experience for both of us, and you can see it fully featured, together with some other great lines in the film "<i><a href="http://www.outcropfilms.com/shop-2" target="_blank">Life On Hold</a></i>" that Nick and Rich from <a href="http://www.outcropfilms.com/" target="_blank">Outcrop Films</a> have been nursing for a couple of years, following the action of Ned, Dan, Mickey, Dave and other great climbers around England.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrdsaiUfCPNYCFdpSNsnFiVSNsERC8t5YjMPaVOlzlkyNx83b05cx_yl3P-tzzkHxVkAnr1ccHf-B2FBHUNoM9e1-JE1aR2zNQbHqVrQyvg94o6bkxk7QSGlGfE1aWX2tRWLV6pHUh1J8/s1600/robin-hood.jpg" imageanchor="1" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrdsaiUfCPNYCFdpSNsnFiVSNsERC8t5YjMPaVOlzlkyNx83b05cx_yl3P-tzzkHxVkAnr1ccHf-B2FBHUNoM9e1-JE1aR2zNQbHqVrQyvg94o6bkxk7QSGlGfE1aWX2tRWLV6pHUh1J8/s600/robin-hood.jpg" width="450" /></a></div>
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The day before the CWIF was supposed to be a rest one. My parents and a friend from Parma were visiting for just a few days, and decided to go bouldering at Robin Hood's Stride. Even my friend Rich was off from work and I still had to see that place so... "Why don't we go and try <i>Kaluza Klein</i>? It's a slab, it won't be tiring, and it will be fun!" So we went there: Rich abseiled down, gave a quick brush to the holds and tried the moves a little bit. He soon managed to do everything but he was so stretched on the last big reach that his feet often slipped due to the bad angle they made on rock. I thought: "I'm taller, I will be fine".</div>
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I placed a small mat over the big rock at the bottom and I started for the lead. It took me a while to find the balance and smear my feet up the bad footholds, and eventually I was there, ready to commit for the big throw, with no chance to come down but to jump off. So I tried, but I didn't hit the vertical crack high enough, and was now totally out of balance with nothing good to hold on. Funny position: completely incapable to move I desperately try to swap feet and I soon found myself into the air. As the rope caught my weight I was already with my ankles against the pad on the rock: "not too bad... next try!"</div>
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The CWIF qualifiers were as funny as tricky as usual and we managed to do well winning the team prize, but the day after I soon started to feel pretty tired from all the climbing I've done and my skin did not feel any better too. Never mind, you can't always have everything, it was definitely time for some sleep before watching the finals and going for a curry with everybody else. After that weather soon became quite warm and still, but it didn't rain and everything was starting to dry. I went back to try Voyager a couple of times, but in such horrible conditions I really struggled to move even if I was in a good shape. As depressing as it sounds... time has come to put on a harness again !</div>
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One of the lines I always wanted to try was <i><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0yV-SI_IYZYCqS0sm4C77ifI3q4auLGrmKAWWpp45ejjB1iBFaeubTJOVz_7m4hfWKFKuVXczGm2pY-gMtioNfLfDjSi__kDjuW1CAx-gYviP4AS_yOrXNKCJFrtOuy7d7SityCjPeRk/s1600/braille-2.jpg" target="_blank">Braille Trail</a></i>, the blank slab featured in <i>Hard Grit</i> where you have to dance with your feet on some tiny pebbles having to rely on three hand placed pegs as a protection. We borrowed from Kathy a special piece of metal she used on the second slot during her ascent of that route (see picture <a href="http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=107764" target="_blank">here</a>). The nice door handle she used in the first one was missing, so we went to buy a simple peg before leaving for Burbage south. Rich went down to clean the holds and check gear, and we found that we could actually use a safe ballnut #2 into the first slot, and a small cam into the third one which apparently got way bigger than it used to be... Everything felt quite safe, at least till you get established onto the arete (I slipped while getting there on my first try and did not fall that far), there one more tricky move gets you to easier climbing above, where you can just relax and calmly top it out... I loved it so much I did it twice to take a few pictures.</div>
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Next stop has been a quick three days trip up to Cumbria to visit my friend Dan and check out some nice sandstone. On the first day we went to "Queens", a small and peaceful crag lost in the middle of a bleak moor along the Hadrian's Wall. I soon felt at home as the rock is very similar to the one I have in Lagoni and I had the pleasure to climb <i><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ8satRMaADv_Ofrfmod07BHJrmPLfe1pKDUr5mNCZE7demWmIgnIfIs2cjE-jFHdBKfwOjiNX_M5NXFGpZbq5g9gB7nu3OMELceVfT4W7hTkn9u65uGMRdSABuO0-BlV3jRnAm3NZh4jM/s1600/Michele+on+Queen+Kong+8a+03.jpg" target="_blank">Queen Kong</a></i> a five stars 8a prow Dan opened some years ago (see more pictures on <a href="http://marksavagephotography.blogspot.it/2012_04_01_archive.html" target="_blank">Mark Savage Blog</a>). Next day was a rest one for me, and after all the cold we got the day before it felt quite odd to be by the ocean in St. Bees, where I could enjoy some lovely weather just taking pictures and watching my friends climb these crazy boulders sculptured by water and wind... definitely a must go if you like bouldering by the sea !</div>
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The third day we traveled back to Sheffield in order to be present at premiere of <i>Life on Hold</i>, but we decided to stop on the way at Ilkley crag in Yorkshire where I had the dream to check out <i><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp5kF9GHfVYWa-KPa1EZRyRS7vq8VwtmEj_rT41VVWLjQuS1PJJtO2s8axMWJJKqkFv7mLqVunphN3eXHjkyx7D5QjBkfBlAf99C4TX1RuoHCD4EnyBEkJQzspmDZF8TrqSgp4PqeCato/s1600/DSC04948-1.jpg" target="_blank">The New Statesman</a></i>, an outstanding route John Dunne put up back in 1987. Regarded E8 7a, the route climbs up the right arete of this huge bouder dominating the hill above the town of Ilkley. It looked to me even better than I imagined, probably the most beautiful bit of gritstone I've ever seen, and in ten minutes I was already abseiling while Dan and Kathy were enjoying the boulders spread on the grass at the base. The route is huge and it took me a while to clean it, to roughly figure out the moves on self belay and to decide which gear would fit best into the small sandy crack you find at two thirds height and in the even smaller one near the top.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLzhxGEmjAia9QSlEr0qFbfGledu68Zp-XgRAuRHURgyBpg0mUbtjKmzFd2OgvW0ZFM5hHKmc0TXoZZgm-ViZVuhhbhoofx7KOqXqLvOhN4hG6KgBD1tgVwQgfqBUuZdjxMzcujtqBwRA/s1600/DSC04934-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 3px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLzhxGEmjAia9QSlEr0qFbfGledu68Zp-XgRAuRHURgyBpg0mUbtjKmzFd2OgvW0ZFM5hHKmc0TXoZZgm-ViZVuhhbhoofx7KOqXqLvOhN4hG6KgBD1tgVwQgfqBUuZdjxMzcujtqBwRA/s320/DSC04934-1.jpg" width="148" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2mAF40EPbALlc1d5l8nOyEcHBYNsLCVPkcfqGsl00X4mIt6AeQ9YN4iMX0GWnhjqbtY3tBL1opr4x3HG6X8bORV64T_eV0Ah2Fj29UEKOXJLgWB1EyAYO3Oy5H1dslWPQlszDBg4JYNU/s1600/DSC05016-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 3px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2mAF40EPbALlc1d5l8nOyEcHBYNsLCVPkcfqGsl00X4mIt6AeQ9YN4iMX0GWnhjqbtY3tBL1opr4x3HG6X8bORV64T_eV0Ah2Fj29UEKOXJLgWB1EyAYO3Oy5H1dslWPQlszDBg4JYNU/s320/DSC05016-2.jpg" width="148" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijKdU29EgWCkd3LOyK-TY-Ha3NmFKy4li9zyAhhI5mv5FkoGSHvDrpsBecJsllJWbkIteW0AkaYcmGndxKyVUx5pm1zwWxxfBvGjmHMxpDvaYvzYRv0HAzxnnxdDuilsBT7lejpEiVUOQ/s1600/DSC05019-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijKdU29EgWCkd3LOyK-TY-Ha3NmFKy4li9zyAhhI5mv5FkoGSHvDrpsBecJsllJWbkIteW0AkaYcmGndxKyVUx5pm1zwWxxfBvGjmHMxpDvaYvzYRv0HAzxnnxdDuilsBT7lejpEiVUOQ/s320/DSC05019-3.jpg" width="148" /></a></div>
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As I did not have all my gear I just found a poor single cam placement in the first one and wasn't able to fit any additional wire in. The climbing above was just a single 6b move to get to further gear, and having done it twice in a row I was quite confident not to fall there. After all the process was done it got late and wetaher was starting to be cold and humid. I was feeling tired but I knew I could still master the moves if I went past the hard first crux. That could have been the only chance to get the route done, being it far from Sheffield, so I just didn't think twice and I started for the lead. Unfortunately after placing the small cam I got quite cold, and was starting to feel slightly shaky... at that point there was nothing else to do but carry on. As I made a high heel hook trying to reach further up the arete it suddenly slipped without warning, and I fould myself into the air at 10 or 12 meters height. I could hear gear fail, I hit a small mat on a side and I rolled over my back out on the soft grass... not too far from a big rock! I stayed a couple of minutes on the ground before standing up, then we packed everything, and I drove back to Sheffiled with a very stiff neck... I've been very lucky this time.</div>
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It took me one day to recover from the fall, and despite some pain in my chest I was soon ready to get up early and fight the heat at Froggatt together with James Blay. We had quite a good time there as he finally sent <i><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEionutFEEu3QeI0bi9Cj-eqQO3JiSfBFX50fQ1rIMd3GBjIFe5bEoRu7-W95XCjyEIhxthIZgCr9B4BqLLa4HgbKCvJh12jz9FB_fqk6O6SNsKeI9-cLrFse4HXB0MoNe1LyDtPclGyUfA/s1600/DSC05106-1.jpg" target="_blank">Renegade Master</a></i> and I made the first padded ascent of <i>Screaming Dream</i>, an old E7 7a by Mark Leach, which is now a brilliant 8a boulder problem... way ahead of his time back in 1987! Above is a nice video of that morning edited by James.</div>
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Time was passing quickly, and spring was definitely on the way. I had just a few days left to to stay in Sheffield and still wanted to go back on The New Statesman, as well as see for the first time Millstone crag and the famous <i>Master's Edge</i>. Luckily my friend Paul Bennett had just finished preparing his thesis and had time to come out and climb with me. The result were two memorable afternoons, with a nice breeze and plenty of sunshine, during which I could feel a small step further in my mind, not just by climbing <a href="https://vimeo.com/40282781" target="_blank">The New Statesman</a> but also by soloing <i><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCp6JzLM8Jn7bNrRvGlX7YZt7t0vDGpZl2EbbuHo7KmurHYAVynYeJyYHxTBE0s11oFEJi_uuLae906EdalnmYpdSvrwk1SeS72JcuYV7izJIf1OHN9S5MROj7xOtcEv-FTMrg7EpvQGM/s1600/DSC05138-1.jpg" target="_blank">Edge Lane</a></i> (E5 5c), and flashing Master's Edge (E7 6c).
Nothing could be better to finish my trip to the Peak this year, and I was happy to celebrate with a good pint with friends before having to drive back to the continent, where I would spend one more week in Fontainebleau with Italian mates, but that's another story, and most of all a very different rock...</div>
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I'll leave you with the nice video that <a href="http://www.paulbennettphotography.co.uk/" target="_blank">Paul</a> edited of the New Statesman, and with the one I made myself with the routes I climbed ground up. It's just average footage from a fixed camera, but at least it captures real action and gives you the feeling of the moment, especially during my fight on Master's Edge, where I could mix some closer shots courtesy of Phil Kelly. Many thanks to everybody who shared his time with me or helped me out. It has been lovely to come back and I think you'll probably have to stand me again next winter... be ready ! ;-)</div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="253" mozallowfullscreen="" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/40940163?byline=0&portrait=0&color=ff6600" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="450"></iframe></div>Michele Caminatihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04009755354934828297noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4780108708516896497.post-37289976844582203392012-03-03T00:35:00.000+01:002012-03-03T00:35:17.674+01:00Careless Torque and The End of Affair<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6Kit8BarKJiIMFZfE9gorgGtn1k74d4zerGzsqtPja6179-WWKxuZTlbJAmI2H_gSbG2pS8z2BSPH09DfEjJQuq9fWjbDSvxBVVh-HB9qhtZTZOLwqY1s1ElQYZx4_86T8ftKn52YBGw/s1600/stanage-edge-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px;" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6Kit8BarKJiIMFZfE9gorgGtn1k74d4zerGzsqtPja6179-WWKxuZTlbJAmI2H_gSbG2pS8z2BSPH09DfEjJQuq9fWjbDSvxBVVh-HB9qhtZTZOLwqY1s1ElQYZx4_86T8ftKn52YBGw/s640/stanage-edge-1.jpg" width="450" /></a></div><div align="center"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: justify;">A week and a half have past since I arrived in Sheffield and weather has been not too bad, at least for an italian point of view, with quite warm temperatures but chilly wind at times, that made rock feel quite grippy.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
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</div><div style="text-align: justify;">This time I learnt the lesson and didn't try to go out on rock every day... better have some good skin if you want to try anything hard on gritstone... so I had plenty of time to wander around and take some pictures with my old rangefinder camera... here you can the results I just got back from the lab!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
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</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Obviously I did not just wander, and had my goals clearly focused in my mind. First of all was Careless Torque... the legendary 8a boulder problem at Stanage Plantation, set up by Ron Fawcett when I was just two... (1987!). Last year I tried many times, but could just not do the mantle crux at the start... this time, understood how to grab the aréte with my left hand, I've been able to do it five times in a row. Four times still dropping with my fingers touching the very last hold, and then finally finding myself at the top of this huge boulder on my 27th birthday! Best present ever.</div><div align="center"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Wheather has not always been good and windy, and many days it has just been mild and humid. What better of training on the wooden Beastmaker board at the Climbing Works and then go out to try some of the best classic Grit lines? I had quite some fun at Curbar and Froggatt doing, among other things Ulysses or Bust (E5 6b), The Great Slab (E3 5b), Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b) and on the famous "<b>The End of Affair</b>" E8 6c.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">For the last route I had to come twice, and I'm glad I didn't try it straight on a flash go! First time I went there wind was blowing so hard that made me lose balance on the delicate moves up the arete, and I consequently felt reluctant to lead it... the second time no wind was blowing and everything was quite damp, but my mood was definitely better and I gathered the courage to lead myself up.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">I'll leave you with this sunset picture taken with my 1958 camera at the base of the End of Affair... here is also the video, I tried to make it look as old as possible. Hope to have good news for an update soon!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="253" mozallowfullscreen="" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/37828852?byline=0&portrait=0&color=ff6600" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="450"></iframe></div>Michele Caminatihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04009755354934828297noreply@blogger.com0