A few days later I was lucky to meet Luca de Giorgi, who had placed that gear on the dihedral, and was looking for motivated partners to carry the project forward, as it looked quite challenging. One day he took me to see the route, and I was instantly hooked. The dihedral was just as beautiful, crack-lined, and solid as it appeared from the highway. The final pitch, which opens up to #5 cam size, was truly something incredible!
The moves felt doable right away, though definitely not easy. The main challenge seemed to be a very thin crack section halfway up, which looked difficult to protect, and a small roof just below it. While climbable, the roof featured loose blocks and flakes that weren’t ideal for placing any kind of protection.
There was an alternative to avoid the roof: a small dihedral accessible via a short diagonal pitch. Unfortunately, it required mostly bolt protection, but it offered high difficulty and very interesting moves, unlike the lower part of the main dihedral, which was easier than the pitches above the roof and quite dirty as well.
So, I began a long process of cleaning and securing the route, which took about two seasons, before finally being able to make the first free ascent. I freed it back in June 2023, but I waited until now to publish the route, when I finally returned with Luca and Matthias to take some photos that truly capture its beauty.
